There are a few bowyers that have done test strips with both mixes just to see
. the 2-1 mix showed tearing of wood and not peeling was much better. I think another key thing is letting the glue cure at room temp or at least not putting it in the hotbox too quick. So all the air has a chance to work out before curing starts.

One of the walk the talk bowyers told me he quit having problems with air bubbles when he went to the 2/1 mix. I haven't tried that mix but I may soon .

If all the properties are better at 2:1...........then why do they even sell it at 1:1? Is the A side the more expensive part?

Hummm... I like the sound of better peel resistance!! I'll give this a try on the next set of limbs I make for myself!!

The A costs a bit more, I'd have to check but seems like about 3 bucks a quart. I've wondered why 1/1 is sold if 2/1 works better also Brad..  maybe bow application isn't the big useage of it ?

Also wonder why not sold separate in pints , only think I can figure is most guys that build lots of bows buy quarts or bigger.?

Ok I always use a bit more resin just because. Had very few problems. Those that did I have to say peeled pretty easy. I know a lot of the high end guys that go 1-1 and are happy with it. So I guess it is what you want to do. Piece of mind type of thing.

54* MORE temp protection is enough of a reason for me--the peel resistance is frosting on the cake

its not any different that 1:1 in the handling dept--I just order 2 A's and mix accordingly---

I use a 24grit belt to clean up a blank--the hardened snots are noticeably tougher--

if its harder for me to peel using a putty knife--its harder for it to delaminate on its own

I just glued up a limb for a TD, and went with 2/1.

See my gloom thread.....  

2-1 blew up --or the replacements are 2-1 ?

1/1 blew up but I think I skimped too much on glue....

I glued one today--after your post--I poured the 2-1 right to it!

There is a suggestion section on the EA 40 web page that shows using a three step cure 2hrs. at 120-150-185. Then if you go 2-1 mix cure at room temp overnite the heat to 217 still under pressure. for those who use 2-1 mix do you do it that way?

my box ramps up very close to that schedule--

IMO 217* seems high for riser woods [very near boiling!]--- beneficial for the epoxy -but.......

that process might be good w/TD limbs --not as much wood to worry about---then use a gentler bake on riser wood

I do the 2:1 ratio and still heat it. I heat to 165 +- for 4 hrs.

Ok Kenny here is you some glue squeeze out.    :D
 

Waaay better'n this!!

I started with the 1:1 ratio and never had a failure. I always use extra with plenty of squeeze out. I have had a few limbs show spots of starvation but I believe it is related to dry spots so I am more careful now to get enough on and even spread. I have read a lot on the 1:1 ratio and 2:1 ratio and with suggestion from a (pro) after some proto type work of the two ratio's I was convinced the 2:1 is far superior for laminated bow limbs. The bow limbs were heated and pulled hot without failure, where the 1:1 ratio failed. Enough for me to be convinced. I work in a R&D environment and use a scale for everything, no guessing. I suggest you invest in a gram scale and measure for accuracy.
My .02
T

I use the ratio as stated before for 4 lam longbow = 72 g Part A to 58 G part B, and have in hot bow at 160 C for 8 hours, then left to cool overnight. Works for me

QuoteOriginally posted by bigbob2:
I use the ratio as stated before for 4 lam longbow = 72 g Part A to 58 G part B, and have in hot bow at 160 C for 8 hours, then left to cool overnight. Works for me

Bob, that is 320F that's hot!!

Ya maken charcoal Bobby boy?