I have proved to myself again and again that when it comes to filing string grooves, I am "that guy". That guy that no matter how meticulous and careful I go, I am just incapable of cutting the grooves even.

Who sells a guide that can make this fool proof for the impaired.....    

Yer from Missouri hain't cha? Yer not related to Kenny M are ya? LOL

I don't file string grooves on the side of the limb tips anymore. Just across the back of the tip. That's all ya need to hold the string and the string aligns itself on the sides..

But, that only works if the over lay is at least 3/8" thick at the groove. Try this skeater:

File one groove in, then lay a 16d nail in it so you can clearly see the angle. Then draw a matching line on the opposite side of the limb. It should come out close enough you wont see it from the road  

I hate trying to explain simple stuff in words. One picture and it all makes sense.

Just measure the top and bottom and mark that along the limb, then file.

I usually put a mark on the back about 3/4" down from the tip and another on the belly at about 1". This usually gives me a groove at about 45deg on the tip edge. This is for selfbows, backed bows and tri-lams.
With one side higher than the other file the lower edge of that nock down until it matches the other. Everything above the string groove is dead weight anyway so just shape above to even out the tip.
I've seen jigs that folks have made that fit over(or around) the tip used as a guide for the chainsaw file.

My marks are always pretty spot on, it's the filing straight that eludes me.

Start with a light swipe or two with a hacksaw blade. This will give you a nice little groove for the round file to follow.

Or start with the edge of a triangular file

Don't cut the first groove too much to start with.  Then go to the second groove checking frequently.  Having not cut too much you can line them up perfect as you go.

This is how I go about it, and it works pretty well for me. YMMV

I mark the bow length to nocks on tape while full width and square across the limb. After profiling limbs, I mark a 45* across limb edges(be sure and go right way   )  and file the grooves in, to center of bow LEAVE the mark and file inside it (toward center) I make them .090" deep, checking with dial calipers .

Then put overlays on , grind to clean up and refile to .100" deep , round everything that looks like a string cutter and string up, look limb alignment over and go from there.

 

   

Here is a jig that helps me. I'm pretty sure I got the idea from someone on this forum.

I think Robertfishes had something like that too.

I always have to do a little fine tuning after overlays are done.

I use 2 chainsaw files.
file one grove, hold the file in the grove on the bottom and START the other side, look at it good and file it in when you are satisfied

Wasnt sure where I stole the idea,  just knew I wasnt smart enough to think of it  

QuoteOriginally posted by Bvas:
Start with a light swipe or two with a hacksaw blade. This will give you a nice little groove for the round file to follow.

X2 That's the best way I have found.

Use a small chainsaw file too, so you can widen everything up and even it out. Start smaller and work it even as you check alignment.  Your hand and file stoke position has a natural arc to it so it's easy to misalign them. I usually clamp my bow on its side to a bench and focus on straight swipes to help keep this from happening.

Is there a cure for cutting a string groove in backwards. This is not a joke nor was it funny.

James

Cut the correct grooves and remove all material in between.
When I do mine, I do about 45 and 90 degrees and remove all material in between. Might look a little different, but would be functional.

Or you could just pike it, and lose  the 1/2" or whatever it would be.

James I guess you could fill it with something like JB kwik weld then re cut your grooves.
I start with a tile saw blade in a hacksaw frame. They are smaller diameter than the smallest chainsaw fil;e and it is very easy top make a straight 'cut' in the hacksaw frame. Then move onto the smallest chainsaw file. Correct any misalignment, step up a size in file and enlargew the grooves making note of any misalignment.
~This 3 stage way opf cutting the groove means that if you do go off slightly it is easy to pull back on the next size.