QuoteOriginally posted by Roy from Pa:
Osage belly 1/4 sawn @ 1/4" thick, leave it parallel.  Walnut core 1/4" thick, tapered from end of riser to 1/8" thick at tips. Hickory backing 1/8 th thick, you want perfectly straight grain hickory with very minimal run out and 1/4 sawn. The Osage belly should also be very straight grain with minimal run out. 1 1/4" wide at flares, maintain the 1 1/4" width out 6" past the flares then do a straight taper to 1/2" wide at tips. I would make the bow 62 to 64" long, with a 13" riser. But I don't know what hill bow specs should be. But wood grain choice is mandatory for these glue ups. You want very nice material.

Roy, I've been planning to make a 'RoyfromPA' bow for a while now but have a few questions...

What poundage would this recipe give you? 50# - 60# @ 28"?

How would you modify the design for a target weight bow, say, 30# - 40# @ 28"?

Does a bamboo backing change much or is it much the same as using a 1/8" Hickory lam?

Cheers!

60" to 62" would get you 50 to 60#. 64" to 66" would be better for 30 to 40 #. Or making the limbs a 1/4" wider would jump up the weight. Not much difference between boo or hickory as far as weight goes.

QuoteOriginally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
 

QuoteOriginally posted by Roy from Pa:
Hard maple is cool...

Yah, for gun stocks, cutting boards and bowling alleys. Get some proper belly wood Monty    

Let me poke around. Perhaps I have something, we could barter. I like to barter, except with Roybert. I never come out even. [/b]

I respect you Chris, but no gunstock should be made from anything but walnut! Lol. I'm too lazy to lug around any extra weight ...

That was just a light hearted joke Benny. Heck , My good buddy made me a maple backed maple bow with a walnut core, its nice as heck.

I agree, walnut stocks or bust. But, it does make for a great bowling alley!