Draw weight drop per inch

Started by starshooter, October 16, 2015, 01:26:00 PM

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starshooter

What is the poundage per inch of draw on Howard Hill bows? I have a 64" 45#@26" Redman and find that the last inch of draw cause me to shoot badly. When I relax and draw approximately to 25" my arrows hit what I am looking at. So I have two questions 1.) Is there a "stack" when I hit the ceiling at 26"? Or am I needing a lighter bow or a bow with longer length??
Other question relates to whether it would make sense to have bow built to 50# @ 27" figuring that I would be drawing 45-48# at my draw which is 26"? My guess is there would be less stacking if the bow  were little longer say 65" ( flattening the angle of the string).
I know this is a lot of questions but I would appreciate hearing from those of you who shoot esp. HH longbows. Needless  to say I really love them.
Thanks
64" Howard Hill "Redman"  46" @26"
66" Jet Archery "Jaguar" 42#@ 26"
52" Java Man "Helms Deep"  41#@ 26"

monterey

Stack would show up if you did a force draw curve with a weight measured at each inch of draw.  I would not expect a 64" HH bow to start stacking at 25", but it does depend on more than just the length.

Would be interesting to see the weight per inch numbers.  It's possible that the last inch is just putting you out of your physical comfort zone.
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

Wolftrail

What I do is build up the tips it seems to help for not getting the stacking issue.  My bows may stack at 30" - 31" and that is 62" and 64" flat bows.  My draw is 27 1/2"

LittleBen

I suspect this may be an issue of shooting form and not necessarily the bow per se.
Could also be an arrow spine issue. If your arrows are underspined they would fly better when you draw shorter.

A lighter bow may help, but I ,ight try shooting some other bows at 25" and 26" etc. and see where exactly the problem is.

I know that for me the difference in accuracy between 25-25.5" and 26" is drastic regardless of the bow. At 26" I tend to pull the bow with the bow arm at the shot and everything goes haywire.

Roy from Pa

Ben, I'd pay big $$$$'s to see you draw a bow to 26 inches...    :laughing:

canopyboy

QuoteOriginally posted by Roy from Pa:
Ben, I'd pay big $$$$'s to see you draw a bow to 26 inches...     :laughing:  
X2!!!!
TGMM Family of the Bow
Professional Bowhunters Society

"The earth has its music for those who will listen." - Santayana

mikkekeswick

No it won't be stacking unless it's a weird design specically builkt for a short draw and even then it's unlikely.
The simple way to know 100% is to do plot the force/draw curve. Just measure the weight at every inch of the draw and plot the numbers on graph paper.
As mentioned if you change your draw length from 25 and your arrows are correctly spined for the draw weight at 25 then drawing further will eventually make the arrows start acting weak BUT you'd have to be quite a good shooter to notice the difference in an extra 1/2 - 1 inch of draw.
Much more likely is that your comfortable draw is where you shoot most often and then trying to 'extend' it out another inch is causing you to have 'issues' with your form. A video of yorself shooting at the different draw lengths should tell you a lot.

Wolftrail

QuoteOriginally posted by mikkekeswick:
No it won't be stacking unless it's a weird design specically builkt for a short draw and even then it's unlikely.
I have seen lots of bows stack that were just simple D-bows or bows with reflexed tips.       :confused:

takefive

I have to agree that plotting a force/draw curve would be the way to find out if your bow is stacking at the end of your draw.  If we can take Tim Baker's word for it in The Bowyer's Bible 1, stacking is caused by string angle.  A 64" bow at your draw should be long enough not to stack.  But he also says that bows that bend too much at the tips increase string angle and therefore stack.
I'm glad you started this thread, because it makes me want to take the time to plot f/d curves on some of my wooden bows.  Some stack more than others, even though they are all long enough for my 27" draw, at least on paper.  I've noticed that I have a tendency to palm or torque the bow the last inch of draw.  My accuracy improves if I grip mainly with my forefinger and thumb.
To answer you original question, a 45# bow should gain 2.25 pounds per inch of draw according to "Shooting the Stickbow".  But I think that assumes a bow that has zero stack.  If the bow is stacking, the weight increase for that final inch or two would have to be higher, probably by quite a bit.
It's hard to make a wooden bow which isn't beautiful, even if it's ugly.
-Tim Baker

Roy from Pa


monterey

Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

takefive

Somebody really should hide Roy's crayons.   :rolleyes:
It's hard to make a wooden bow which isn't beautiful, even if it's ugly.
-Tim Baker

fujimo

that is viscous- but i am peeing myself right about now- seems like the ol fella has nought but time on his hands since he retarded a few years ago   :laughing:    :laughing:

fujimo


LittleBen

I'm just surprised the old dog knows how to use MS paint.

Roy from Pa


canopyboy

I'm just trying to figure out how Ben gets negative let-off on a stick bow once he gets past 25 inches!!!
TGMM Family of the Bow
Professional Bowhunters Society

"The earth has its music for those who will listen." - Santayana

takefive

I think Roy posted his Viagra performance chart by mistake.   :laughing:
It's hard to make a wooden bow which isn't beautiful, even if it's ugly.
-Tim Baker

Roy from Pa


fujimo

ya fellas gotta stop this- i end up coming back every 10 min. to read whats going on- not getting any work done here!!!   :D   besides my wife thinks i am crazy as it is- besides sitting here guffawing uncontrollably!

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