One thing with innertubes is that they can cup the backing if it's thin so if you plan on using a backing less than 3/16th thick you want to put a pressure strip on the backing.
Food wrap is useful stuff  
Roy is right about everything moving. I use spring clamps to hold the lams straight then wrap with good, strong parcel tape. Nothing ever moves.
It's easier to wrap the full bow or you can also use the hooks method. It doesn't matter.
Remember to pull the tubes nice and tight, I pull on mine until I get most of the stretch out.

I finally got the glue in the mail! Just picked up a cheap paint brush and latex gloves for like $1 and I'm ready to start gluing. Also, I don't think I mentioned this earlier, but I'm making a thorough video of the build-a-long, so I've been taking a bunch of shots for building the form and doing the dry run, etc.

I've got the bow all glued up and sitting in the top shelf of a closet with a space heater until at least tomorrow after work.

 

I took it out of the form and it looks nice. Everything is aligned well and retained much of the shape when glued. I've just been working away with a wood rasp to get the glue residue sanded off. I think I might rent some time on a belt sander to expedite the process until I get down to clean wood before going back to hand tools.

Which brings me to my next question. Symmetrical or asymmetrical limbs? Does it matter? Certainly there must be a reason people do it, and I think the reason is to give a longer upper limb so that the arrow travels closer to the center of the bow. And the easiest way to do that is to shape my 4" handle so that it's centered a little below center of the bow.

But I also know that some people like to stick with symmetrical bows. Thoughts?

heres a tip, when i do a glue up nowadays, i mask the side pieces, and back and belly  of the wood- then after glue up the onlky place the glue is actually sticking to the bow is at the glue lines- makes it super easy for clean up- a lot can be pulled off with the tape- and the sanding process gives you that tape buffer- just sand/rasp thru the glue- when you expose the tape- good enough- quick and safe!!

Another update. I've got all of the glue residue off and have shaped the side view of the osage handle so that it fades into the ipe. I decided just to stay with the hand tools, so it has been slow work with the wood rasp. I'm currently working on thinning out the width of the handle. Simultaneously, I'm gathering supplies for the tillering tree. Surprisingly, the type of pulley I need is very hard to find. I'm having one ordered to the store at Home Depot since they apparently don't stock them.

 

looking cooking!!
glue lines look great from here!!

Mark of good workmanship , great glue lines!

Look up your nearest rock climbing shop they will be able to get you very nice pulleys for not much money. They will never wear out for bow making.
I use the Petzl Oscillante and one of the tandems just because I had them spare from rigging slacklines.

What type of pulley are you looking for? I use a regular 3" pulley with ball bearings for my top pulley, about $6.00 at home depot. And the bottom pulley is a solid pulley that slides onto a 1/2 inch shaft..
Glue lines look nice.

Top pulley.



Bottom pulley.

Roy, I am going to have to use a modified tiller tree since I can't mount anything to the wall in my apartment. My plan is to use a wall/ceiling mount pulley and mount it directly onto the beam. It would take the place of your lower pulley. I might have to reinforce the wood again if it flexes. I don't think I'll need the upper pulley, but I'll find out once I attempt to use it.   Pulley Link

A two pulley system works nice, it cuts the pull weight in half.

Could ya mount the tillering tree on the wall in your girl friends apartment? Ya gotta think this stuff out, ya know? LOL

Yea I suppose adding a second pulley would be pretty easy. A 3/4" one should fit fine without contacting the board seeing as the bow handle is over 1" wide.

Roy has a Rolls-Royce pulley system, I have a Yugo pulley system on my tillering tree, one cheap marine pulley on an eye hook near the floor. My system has been tillering bows for almost 20 years.

Bow is ready to start tillering. I've got a short/long string on it and the first thing that happens when I pull is that the bow tilts. Look at where the limb tips are when I start vs when the video is finished. The limbs are symmetrical from the center, but I'm pulling 1 5/8" from center for equal limb timing. I want to be sure that it's tipping because the right limb is stiffer and not just because I'm pulling from off center. Though, when I hold the bow so that it can't tip the left limb still bends a little more. So I should scrape some wood off the right limb, correct?

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0lsUi_s_mc&feature=youtu.be

Here is another video where I kept the bow from tilting to get an idea of how it's bending.

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXprd_qNuB0&feature=youtu.be

The right (lower limb) is a little stiff in it's middle section.
10 scrapes and then check tiller again.
You may find a 'tillering gizmo' very handy as it will allow you to easily compare limb to limb.
Are you using a scale to pull to your target weight?
If not do so as this is very important. Always pull the same weight unless you spot a problem before hitting weight.

Mike is correct, limb on the right is stiff at mid limb. It is doing all the bending just outside the fade area. First thing I would do is shorten up the bow string so that it lays tight against the belly when the bow is strung. The shorter string will apply more stress to the outer third of the limbs.

QuoteOriginally posted by mikkekeswick:
The right (lower limb) is a little stiff in it's middle section.
10 scrapes and then check tiller again.
You may find a 'tillering gizmo' very handy as it will allow you to easily compare limb to limb.
Are you using a scale to pull to your target weight?
If not do so as this is very important. Always pull the same weight unless you spot a problem before hitting weight.

Interesting. I might have to make one of those gizmos. They look pretty simple anyways. Also, I am using a scale but haven't come close to target weight yet. The scale has only been reading about 15-20 pounds (x2 = 30-40 because of the pulleys). My target weight is around 65 to start with and see how easily I can shoot it.

I revamped my tillering tree. Now at least it's vertical lol.