Well it took three tries. First try was BBH FAIL - lifted a spinter, Second try was to remove the Bamboo and replace - worked for a short time and then fail - not to mention it was down to 35# at that point. Third try - ordered Osage and Hickory backing  - Roy's recommendation on the Osage. I also did a bit more research on proper tillering and here ya go! I am sure the tiller is not all that it could be but it is shooting so nice!

60# @ 28" 64" tip to tip. I put a para cord wrap for the handle temporarily until I pick up some more leather.













I will try to get a full draw pick when my wife returns home from shopping -

Any input on tiller or anything else that will help me with the next bow is appreciated! I have been a glass bow builder from day one but building this bow was a whole new kind of fun...and I am shocked at how well it shoots.

Here is a full draw pic...

Well if that's the best you can do, then I guess it's Ok..  

Actually I kinda like it.

Not too shabby.

Sort of Ok..

OK OK, ya done good....

But I think the top limb is bending too much at mid limb.

Thanks Roy - yep the top limb is bending too much at mid limb. I was taking 35 scrapes off the stiff sections and I believe that is too many at one time. Need to go back to 15 scrapes and re-check.

Roy - should I try to get it bending more out of the fade? or leave it alone?

Yup 35 is "way" too many, try 10. Yes I would try a little outside the fades, not much though.

Looks sharp.

Good looking bow    
That has to be my favorite wood combo as well.

Yes you top outer limb is stiff. I wouldn't touch the inner limb at all.

Do you have a tillering gizmo? It will help  prevent hingy limbs during the tillering process.

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001047#000000

I use the ten scrape rule as well as I get further along in the tillering process. I switch to an orbital sander for the final tillering adjustments.

Eric - I have read through your thread on the gizmo and I used just a 6 in block on this bow but I have started building a gizmo according to your latest update and I want to run it on this bow to see where I get pencil marks.  I think it will make things a whole lot easier.

Very nice!

Ok I have a question...Now that I have final tillering on this bow and I have shot it in with about 400 arrows through it. Can I use the heat gun method to reflex the tips a bit to add some reflex into the bow?

This may not even be an option because it is a Hickory backed Osage and heating it up may impact the glue joint between the Hickory and the Osage. I know that this could have been done at initial glue up. And in fact I did glue some backset into it when I glued up the Hickory backing and now that it is shot in it is very close to being straight limb bow...maybe just a little string follow but not much.

No, I wouldn't risk it. I don't know what kind of glue you used, but Smooth On can handle SOME slight heat correction, Tightbond... not so much.

A better method would be to saw a kerf into the end of the limb for about 12" and slide a short lamination in there, and glue the outer limb while pressing it into a form of the shape you choose.

That said, I'd probably just enjoy it for what it is and start another.

Make another bow... You need the practice  

You got that right Roy- I ordered some more Osage from Pine Hollow last night and I am excited to make some more yellow sawdust. I also ordered a DVD from Pine Hollow for additional insight and instruction.

Atta Boy....