I have had some materials I got from Kenny M sitting around waiting on me to start my first glass lam bow build. I finally have got around to starting this build, but have run into a slight roadblock. I have some bird's eye veneers for the back, a set of tapered lams, a set of parallel lams, a set of lams that are thicker on the ends and thinner in the middle, and two strips of glass. I need help determining the layout order, and I am confused about the set of lams that is thinner in the middle...what is the purpose of them being tapered in this manner? Just want to make sure I have this all figured out before I start this splicing/gluing process.  I don't want to screw it up and waste materials.

I believe you have the 58/60 inch material. The thicker ends and thinner middle lams have built in tip wedges that's why the ends are thicker.

The order I believe is going to be from back of bow to belly

1. glass for the back
2. parallel lams spliced
3. your thicker tapers with thin middle
4. riser
5. taper set of lams
6. birds eye maple veneers
6. glass

Wait for others to chime in and I am sure that Kenny will be on here at some point. I am working on a 60 inch bow right now and so that is how I would lay it out.

Hope that answers your question... I'm no pro tho

Good Luck

Justin

My first glass bow was Kenny's 60" r/d and I believe the superlam went on the belly side after the riser. I'll check out the stack order when I get to the house and see if I remember right.  Kenny, where are you?

The order is going to be from back of bow to belly

1. glass for the back
2. birds eye parallel lams spliced
3. .002" PI taper(even taper end to end)
4. riser
5. superlam(thick on ends, thin in center)
6. birds eye maple veneers
6. glass

The superlam will have a matchmark on butt end(center of bow), make sure to get that to center or you will have a stiff outer limb.

If the mark has been removed, just put a couple fingers on each end of lam and bend it , the end most limber goes to tips of bow.

It will bend more on one side of center, it is a .001 taper with built in power lam and tip wedge.

I'm right here, just catching stuff up that has been put off!! LOL

Thanks for your help all!  I will post pics when I finally get it completed.

So you got a lam with a built in tip wedge? It would be interesting to see that sled;
I have built this design with two tapers and one parallel and the weight seems to come out lighter. Not as much spring back off the form with more lams I am thinking. I also will add I have built a couple of 62 inchers on the 58-60 form that are really good shooters to.But they for sure need the tip wedge.

no kidding....how can a double taper be achieved? I'm sure its simple but not doing my own lams and trying to picture this in my head is a bit confusing.

I'd imagine you could only make a sled for a specific length of limb, would be kind of a pain haha. But taking your normal, .002 sled or whatever, stick your tip wedges on the bottom of the thick side at the proper place for the length of your limb, mark where its grinding to make sure it doesn't grind too far up the taper, and you're done, maybe a minor sanding on the transition.