Ok, thanks to dictionary.com:

Bal·bo·a/bælˈboʊə; Spanish bɑlˈbɔɑ/ Show Spelled [bal-boh-uh; Spanish bahl-baw-ah] Show IPA
noun
1. Vas·co Nú·ñez de /ˈbɑskɔ ˈnunyɛθ ðɛ/ Show Spelled [bahs-kaw noo-nyeth the] Show IPA , 1475?–1517, Spanish adventurer and explorer who discovered the Pacific Ocean in 1513.
2. a seaport in Panama at the Pacific terminus of the panama canal.
3. ( lowercase ) a silver coin and monetary unit of Panama, equal to 100 centesimos.

Due the lack of capitalization, Roybert's handles have something to do with silver coins?  Is that to get the weight up and make them more like a 3-piece glass bow with a heavy riser?

Your eyes are failing you cantaloupe boy...

man.. i is gonna join pirates of archery- or buy shares in lancaster. i just cant do this anymore!!!
i just pi$$ed my long undies, ma wife thinks i am crazy- an' having an affair- this is just too much... tooo much!!

One word, Wayne...

DEPENDS........... For men...    

Kenny buys his here too.    

 http://www.liveanew.com/Depend-s/3020.htm?searching=Y&sort=3&cat=3020&show=20&page=1&f-Male=4200&gclid=CImV0tfi-bwCFWuhOgod3HkAmA

lol..
ya'll got that bookmarked/favorited now?

OK OK...

Back to bow topics here ladies..  

Roy, if you and Kenny go in together you might be able to get a better bulk price.            


Question for you guys. I'm looking at a straight limbed HBI as one option for my swap bow. I want to taper the Ipe slat before glueing on the hickory. It is about 5/8" thick at the moment. If I have a 4" handle and 2" fades what sort of thickness taper should I use for a 55#@28" bow. Slat is 72" at eh moment so limb length can be just about anything.

what do you all ship your bows in? was thinkin PVC pipe with foam pipe insulation for padding around the bow.

tony, its not a true taper all the way, as you want the ends a bit stiffer. i just use my drawknife, and finish the last few pounds with my scraper- doesnt seem too much of a sweat, for me- i would be nervous of taking off too much. but whatever you feel comfortable with- i am pretty nervous of how quick  a power tool eats a bow up!

i have used a pipe in the past with bubble wrap.- so your idea should work just fine!!

5/8th to 3/8th. I would start the taper at the ends of the fades...

Eric, pvc is the only way to go shipping a bow.

sorry fella, i said drawknife- thats not true- spokeshave is what i use on all my bows.
sorry to be misleading ya.

there's the man who knows about tapers!!!- go by his advice

QuoteOriginally posted by Echatham:
what do you all ship your bows in? was thinkin PVC pipe with foam pipe insulation for padding around the bow.

Sched 40 PVC is close to indestructible. But heavy as heck. The thin-walled version (and corrugated as well) that they use for drain pipe is good too and a lot lighter.

I like to use cardboard tubes that McMaster Carr ships stuff in.  Wrap the bow with some bubble wrap, put some foam in the ends, make sure the caps are secure, and off it goes. They seem rather sturdy. I get some at home when I order stuff 6' long, and scrounge up a few more at work. Works great for longbows. Haven't shipped a recurve yet.

Thanks Roy, I'll lay it out tonight and get started on it.

No worries Wayne. I was planning on tapering with a hand plane to get it even and smooth. I then do most of my tillering with the draw knife as a scraper or the cabinet scraper. And yes when I say tips I mean the that the last 6" will be stiffer.

I send all my bows on the cardboard tube that carpet curtains etc comes in. usually about 3''I.D. and a wall thickness of 1/4''- 3/8'' Stores are only too glad to pass them on, otherwise they just go to recyclers.I wrap the bow in bubble wrap and fit a MDF cap each end and secure with screws and duct tape. Roy that tiller thingo  is much how I do mine only mine is horizontal , mounted on bench and I use a boat winch to do the draw.I have a graph drawn on ply under the bow and time the tips for either 3 under or split.

For you guys wanting a wider hook I just a piece of leather. I fold it over the string and put my hook through it. Mine is about 1.5" I think it works well. Plus it keeps the metal hook of my string.

Cool Bobby, limb timing is the way to go.

I stained and put on the first coat of tung oil tonight. Well actually I stained, then looked for scratches and sanded them out, then stained again and did the tung oil. This video is right after the tung oil is applied, I let it sit for 5 minutes then wipe it off. If left to dry it would maintain the high gloss you see in the video. But I don't like high gloss bows and the dust factor comes into play also. But when it's wiped off, it looks satin and has zero dust in the finish. I do about 4 or 5 coats like this, waiting 24 hours between coats.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPOhr4gJhq8&feature=youtu.be

Here it is below after being wiped off. It hardly has any satin shine, but with each coat the satin shine gets more pronounced.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C86ISHeKHN8&feature=youtu.be

And below there are two bows, both with a coat of tung oil. The one in the fore front is my buddy Dennys bow. Each bow can attain whatever look we so desire, and it's always a little bit different.. All depends on the guy making the bow.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1e1jzqdjLoE&feature=youtu.be

I really should start taking my good Cannon camera out there instead of using the cell phone for pictures and videos. But hell it's just a go bow, not a show bow..  

so do you use the gloss tung oil or the satin?  i just bought a can of gloss tung oil for a bow rack i made, but i think im gonna try it on my next bow too.

I normally sand the rind off the boo till it's clean looking. This bow I did not do that. Couple reasons but whatever. It shoots well and that's all that counts..