Ah, I see that now.. Thanks Paul

I'll throw in my 2 cents just to be difficult      
I use plastic cups to measure a 1:1 ratio, then the bow goes into the oven for 6 to 8 hours @ 172-176 degrees F.

Ok so here's my question. If it will cure in the over or at room temp is there an advantage to using the oven? I just recently built a form and oven for a glass bow and have been wondering about smooth on myself.

I like to cure the bow at the higher temp for better heat resistance, tho I have no test data to prove anything on that. Only what I've read on the Smooth-?on site that it makes it stronger. I haven't seen that it pertains to bows or electrical.  

The overlays I don't worry about heating because they aren't stressed that much and if need be you could put them back on. I'd bet it would never be necessary tho.

I have been wondering the same thing as mjwhitby. Bickerstaff bows has a video series on YouTube where they glue up a longbow with rubber bands and no heat. They say theyve never had a bow delaminate. But they dont specify what glue they use.

I should add that even though I sometimes question why, I still believe in staying with whats tried and true! I will be doing mine with heat. I really dont want any sudden surprises!

These glass bow questions are tuff:)

I learned a little more about epoxid and do not be surprise if you do not glue it in the heat chamber. It is important that the surfaces are cleaned with alcohol. As for the explanation of the smooth-on website, the higher the temperature and the ratio of 2:1 increases static and temperature resistance. So a good clean and balanced pressure

QuoteOriginally posted by kennym:
I like to cure the bow at the higher temp for better heat resistance, tho I have no test data to prove anything on that. Only what I've read on the Smooth-?on site that it makes it stronger. I haven't seen that it pertains to bows or electrical.  

The overlays I don't worry about heating because they aren't stressed that much and if need be you could put them back on. I'd bet it would never be necessary tho.

Exactly what my mentor taught me. Curing at room temperature is fine. Curing with heat offers more heat resistance with the finished product. Not a big deal unless you're prone to leaving your bow and/or children in the car on a hot summer day. Don't worry so much about curing temps. If the bow delaminates some day, you'll be just like those wood guys and their "kindling"    

Hey gooberboy, don't make me come out there:)

Another that always does 1:1 ratio and has never used a hot box, with 30+ glue ups under my belt.

Yup 1 : 1 and cure at 70 degrees is all I've ever done.

The 1:1 is a mainstay for me, cure, 5hrs @ 180 deg. NEVER remove from the form when it is still hot! Overlays, I use a lower temp (one heat lamp) and I like to put "socks" on the limbs, a couple of pieces of fire hose work well.

That's why I like this site so much. Never thought about using a bit of old fire hose to deflect the heat when 'cooking' tip overlays but have always been conscious of the need for lower heat , thanks Grizz for that tip, will become standard practice for me now.

Always 1:1 Ratio by volume
180F @4h for limbs!
Riser I cure in room temprrature for 24h

Last onepiece I cured in room temperature for 24h.
Just as nice gluelines and no sign of delamination.

what are the fume's like? I'm trying to figure out a place for glue-up,is a pilot lite on a furnace ok? or will I blow my house up    Burt

Should be good Burt, I have one in the oven 20ft. from the furnace and no issues at all.  I had the same concerns.  I can't even smell the thing cooking.  I thought it would have some odor.

You can weigh the stuff at a 100:83 ratio resin to hardener and it comes in just like the 1:1

EA 40 will completely cure at 160 degrees in 20 minutes with heat strips applied to either side.

The hot box technique requires cooking your whole form to death at 180 degrees for 4-5 hours... again,,, and again... and again...


next thing you know your form starts twisting on you and these guys can't figure out how come the limbs are twisting?   Good greif!  you would be better off not using heat at all than a hot box. IMO.

I'll stick with my heat strips, thank you...

20 minutes with heat strips! Where would someone find these heat strips?

Kirk, from Bigfoot Bows, a nice gentleman that will help you out.