Ya convex arc, 1/8 wider cut out, same thing Bowdunkie:)

Uh... the same, only different.

My advice is to take their advice lol.

Regarding the core wood ... I think it's all about keeping limb mass down. So a lighter wood like walnut would probably be faster ...

So would shooting a compound ... or just tillering to 1# more draw weight.

I usually just pick a core wood that will look nice. With that said, nothing at all wrong with an osage core and an osage belly. Maybe you're losing 2fps over a walnut core assuming everything else the same ... maybe even less ...

I do think it looks cool when the core is the same as the belly, because it looks just like a backed osage bow, but you get that sweet R/D profile too.

QuoteOriginally posted by LittleBen:
...
I think this type of build is a good candidate for using supertiller and trying to calculate a proper stack thickness.
...

what is supertiller btw?

oh ...wait I went through this before..
It's some kind of program right?

Where might someone find this.
Googled it and couldn't find a download...

Just make the bow and tiller it super sweet:)

heck yeah!

I dunno..some of that stuff is a little too techie in a way..
But it sure beats making a bunch of bows the wrong stack I suppose.

When making a tri lam is there a general stack thickness, taper rate, bow length formula?

I'm thinking that much r/d is kinda unneeded and possibly a detriment on a longer bow.

thinking maybe 64" or even 62" would be a smarter use of the r/d.

What say you oh sages?

It would depend on your draw length. With that much reflex, it will maintain a string angle less than 90 degrees, and be more efficient, at shorter lengths. 58" would be easily done for a 28" draw, even shorter if you kept the length of the non-bending handle section to a minimum... and hence maximizing working limb length.

No formula that I've ever seen. How it all shakes down depends on enough other design specs that a formula wouldn't be much more than a ballpark anyway. The best thing to do is make your best guess, then keep records of each succeeding bow for future reference.

Thanks Jeff.

I guess it's cyphering time.

Jeff, how about an explanation of how you do the core lam tapers on a one long piece of core lam. Do you run the tip in first and take off more on the tip end, then as you move towards the flare your sled is tapering less? Then you pull it back out and do the other limb?

I would be interested to know also. What I have done in the past is taper two 36" lams, then splice them, then flatten the center section.