In my reading I continue to come across bows breaking or coming to a point where they can't be shot for fear of breaking.  Is this an Issue with ipe bows, all bows, or only specific woods.  Last time I was shooting I was shooting a lot as in 60 arrows at least three days a week.  I want to build a bow that will last.  I plan to build in December hunt turkey in the spring and grouse, turkey, deer and elk in the fall.  I have only shot factory bows up until now and never had an issue.  I was planning on building a bamboo backed ipe long bow and don't have a problem doing it twice to get it write but I want a bow I can shoot a lot and shoot for years to come.
Thanks,
Ray

What are you reading?

Study, take good tutelage, and use osage... you will succeed.

I had posted about IPE bows failing , I believe the cause was a radius belly. The flatter belly bows I built are shooting fine. The radius failed after a 100 or so shots with no notice of a problem.

I thought that ipe could handle a radius belly...Humm.  I have had ipe bows fail and have had them last.  I made one that is probably close to five years old and has shot A LOT of arrows and it is still going strong.  Wood is a natural material and some has flaws and some doesn't.  The failures I've had are due to me messing up something in the building process.  The more you get into building the more you will realize that if one breaks that just means you get to BUILD ANOTHER ONE...LOL  You will see what I mean after you get started.

Osage is the best bow wood there is...

If your dead set on making a laminate bow for your first natural materials bow I'd use osage as your belly...its going to be much more tolerant of your tillering mistakes whereas ipe won't...and trust me you will make mistakes and it will prob take more than two tries to get it right...id rather see someone make a few simpler bows(simple self bows) to get the hang of tillering before spending a bunch of  money on materials that has a good chance of being ruined....boards are cheap n easy..straight saplings of hickory,elm,oaks,maple,etc are easy to come by as well,and cost nothing to learn on...

Do yourself a favor and build a glass bow, problem solved.

Glass didnt solve my problems JamesV Hahahah!! Looks a little out of tiller huh?

Rau, I can't believe how close that looks to my PSE long bow from the 70's 80's except its a deflex bow.

That wood could have been to wet or clamped to tight and smashed all the glue out. Some woods drink up the glue also, need two coats and a wait between.

Most all wood bows will eventually break if shot enough.  Its not a question of if but when.  I tried to finish one bow a year.  After several years, I have spares.  And the way I figure, more bows I have, more I spread out the wear.

Bamboo can be great, but its an organic product that wears more movement it has.  

Some last longer than others.

QuoteOriginally posted by bigcountry:
Most all wood bows will eventually break if shot enough.  Its not a question of if but when.  I tried to finish one bow a year.  After several years, I have spares.  And the way I figure, more bows I have, more I spread out the wear.

Bamboo can be great, but its an organic product that wears more movement it has.  

Some last longer than others. As one old bowyer told me "its not a hobby of attachment"

Osage selfbows, properly built and cared for, last countless thousands of shots. My favorite osage selfbow will be 10 years old next year.

Even glass bows can fail, revealing a weak link if one exists.