Looks like it's bending nice-what is your distance from string to fades left to right?

On the left if I remember correctly we are at 6 3/8 inch... on the right right at 6.5 making it positive tiller of 1/8

I think you got it nailed buddy!!

Thanks kenny!!! No doubt because of your generosity in wisdom and in material... I surely owe you somehow!!!

pretty darn nice Justin...like the fluted style nocks

Looks good to me! Nice work!

QuoteOriginally posted by bowhntineverythingnh03743:
On the left if I remember correctly we are at 6 3/8 inch... on the right right at 6.5 making it positive tiller of 1/8

Thats great! Once you round everything over you'll drop a few lbs. Now you need to cut in the shelf so you can fling a few arrows... this is a nice shooting design.

Man you wood bow dudes sweat limb bending way too much! Make the limbs the same profile, put it on the tiller tree and draw the sucker to full draw. No big deal. Measure from the fades to the belly on both limbs and then grind on the one that is not where you want it till you have your tiller. It's no harder than that. You may want to make a template to help you draw and cut out your bows. Here's what you do. Get Kenny to sell you a couple sticks of .050 clear glass. Draw your profile on it with straight edges just like you want it. Make a line at the string grooves, shelf, center, and fades. Draw a good line down the center from end to end. Use your straight edges and a stout hunting knife to score the profile lines into the glass over and over until you can break the glass on the scored lines. Hand sand the splinters off and you should have a perfect template. The second stick of glass is in case you scew up the first one. Now you can forget drawing center stripes and all that stuff. Just square the blank up best you can after glue up, eyeball the center of each tip and mark it, lay your template on the back of the blank, trace it with a sharpie and cut it out. I do most of the cutting with a very thin 6.5" blade on my tablesaw but you can grind or use a bandsaw if you want. This whole process is very quick and painless and it will give you a straight bow. File your initial string grooves shallow so you can adjust string tracking if necessary. You are making this way too hard. It's supposed to be fun and easy. Save all the hard work for wood bows. The bow looks great BTW!

Bonner

Yep Dan that is about how I do it.
As far as squareing a blank if you get one side cleaned up pretty good you don't really need a sled to run it thru a drum sander. I have found you can hold it good enough to get it to whatever width you are wanting. Then put your template on it and mark the limb profile.

That is great work for your first glass bow! I'm hoping mine will turn out that nice when I finally get everything together and start the build. Thanks for sharing.

Can you guys show me different angles of your shaped handles with a mid wrist handle. I am only used to rounded straight handles but want to do somethin a lil tougher.

Another thing... Do you cut your shelf to center on these style bows or stop short?

QuoteOriginally posted by Dan Bonner:
Man you wood bow dudes sweat limb bending way too much! Make the limbs the same profile, put it on the tiller tree and draw the sucker to full draw. No big deal. Bonner

HAHAHAHA

                     

Here's a few- mine are all cut to center:
 
 
 
 

Ok thanks guys. I'm going to add a block to the bottom limb tomorrow. Should I use smooth on again? I just don't want to over cook this thing. Your pictures really help me get an idea of how to shape this handle.

Yea use smooth on- just let it cure for a day before you work it.

Ok I will do that... I assume I will copy the radius of the glass onto the piece of wood and then cut it out, sand to fit and then let it rest for the entire day/night and get back at it Tuesday. Thats to say if I was to get it all fitted tomorrow.

Lookin' real good Justin!  You're becoming a glass bow machine  

You are right on track- I usually use a strip of inner tube as a clamp to hold that piece in place while its drying.

Sounds  good Justin!  No heat required on overlays. It will stay and if by chance it doesn't for whatever reason, not a structural prob.