Would using red elm as a riser by itself in a #50 62" hybrid be strong enough? The riser will be 18" and have a shelf cut in.

I have ZERO glass experience as you know ducky duck. Id say the elm is plenty strong enough, but very flexible and "springy". That would concern me in regards to stability.

If your riser is not to slim and the window not cut far beyond center it probably will work. But I'd still laminate some glass and/or hardwood in it just for the sake of a better stability.

----------
Andy

The one bow I used red elm in the riser on, when sanded it had ripples in it from hard/soft grain.

I swore off after that one...  :D

use an "I"beam if your nervous--heres one with a beam of unidentified hardwood -but the outside is red elm---and Kenny is spot on with the sanding--I used ALOT of super glue [sanding-sealer] on this one--

any guess's on the "I"beam wood??its real dense and hard on tools!!

Thanks guys.

I think I still might use the red elm but use an osage I-beam. I'm just running building scenarios in my head since I'm still in Minnesota and can't start building until I get back on sunday...

Kenny this is going to be for the stuff you sent me, I love how red elm and osage look together so I'm going to use this setup instead of the osage/walnut, hope you don't mind  

Nope, not a bit!! LOL

And after Mike said that about CA, if I did it again, I would CA the heck outta it before I got to finish sanding, might harden the soft parts a bit!

limb edges too ken!!and use a hard block

Yep, done that, just never used it in riser again!!LOL

I used it in a 53# longbow with an 18" riser.  Not a re-de, but a 66" flat bow.  Was a solid piece of elm.  Been shooting it for about 12 years now without problem.  Did not notice any sanding problems, but I use blocks for just about every application of sandpaper until getting down to the 220 or 320.

I'll not use it again just because it was so dang plain!

I would think the elm would be a B to fill the grain before finish. I have had the ripple effect on Osage to but it is plenty strong. Laming it aint gonna hurt either.

On those porous woods like elm and walnut I sand the first couple finish layers in to fill the pores.  Makes a big difference.  Got that idea from a gun stocker.