hey i might be shooting this thing in tomorrow!... unless its raining     :rolleyes:

6" brace, 49# @ 28"





took a little bit of set but the tips are still out in front of the bow.

Your left limb is stiffer - how much positive tiller are you going for, and how much do you have now?  Tiller looks pretty good overall, though.  I don't know if I'd do a whole lot more than maybe taking 2 scrapes off the inner third of the left limb (depending of course on your amount of positive tiller.)
Your fades do look pretty abrupt.  Next one, make them an inch or so longer than what you have.  That'll make a more gradual transition to help with the tiller, and also make it look sleeker.

Beautiful job, by the way!    

I know it looks stiffer at brace, but it kinda almost acts weaker at draw if that makes sense. there is about 1/8" positive tiller at the moment, and thats fine by me.  my handle hasn't been shaped at all, so once that is thinned down it might make the fades look a little less steep. I know i made them on the short side of average, but i got talked out of 4" of ntn length, and it just made me feel better to have more working limb. I am going to refine the handle a little tomorrow, and hopefully my WB horn will be here so i can put the overlays on. hopefully can get the nocks done and a string twisted up and start shooting this thing in, see if tiller changes, and choose a top limb based on all that.

actually, I think it only looks stiffer because it retained more of its recurve than the right limb did.. that would make sense right?

im not planning on it, but just for knowledge purposes... if i tried to do any straightening or adjustments with heat now it might screw up the tiller right?

I suppose it depends on what kind of adjustment you're going to try, but probably yea.  Eh, just get 'er done and shoot it.  Kill something with it - it'll make you feel better.  Then make a couple hundred more  

im not going to do anything on this one, but i am kind of curious what would happen if i put it back on the form and tried to get the reflex back.  im guessing since it lost this much the first time, it would just lose it all again if i put it back in.  how much can you heat and cool and reheat the wood without causing some kind of weakening or fatigue?

Don't bother trying to get the reflex back, yep, you would just lose it again because you're not correcting the REASON it took the set. That little bit of set that it has taken ain't nothin. It'll take some more too before it's all over.

As far as the heating thing, I've heated and corrected the same area of a bow several times with no apparent ill effects. I usually do it for alignment purposes.

The only thing I see in the tiller is it looks a little stiff just outside the dips on the left limb.

Bowjunkie yeah I see that now, i will put a couple scrapes on that, left limb is stiffer anyway, so it can stand to lose a scrape or two.

safe to shoot it with shallow nock grooves in the sides only... and with my tillering string? (16 strands of B50 with one loop and a timber hitch)  I don't know if my horn will be here for the weekend.... actually... i won't be able to shoot much this weekend anyway... got to work and stuff.

Looking great!
Very pretty lines.
 

best glue for horn overlays? I have several different ca glues.... gorilla glue blue cap being my favorite, also TB3 and unibond 800. which would you guys use or what else would you get?

I've read that CA glues work well.
I wouldn't use TB3.

I've used easton brand ca glue that I used for fletching carbons on two bows now. It's not quite "gel" thick.
But thicker than regular CA glue.

Had more than enough time to work with.
..BUT I haven't shot either of those bows yet so I can't speak of longevity.

I did take a piece of rough sanded osage and horn, lightly hacksaw toothed them and used the easton glue to glue them together.
I applied glue to both surfaces, and clamped up with spring clamps...use saran wrap..lol

The pieces didn't want to come apart when I took a hammer to it....until I got mean with it.

It's called easton quick bond.

..probably not much different than other ca glues..but this is all I have experience with.

Here's a link to a little info I received...

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=010067;p=1#000000

yeah im pretty sure the gorrilla ca glue is going to be the best stuff that i have on hand.

I don't know why it wouldn't work.

Yeah, you can shoot it with a timber hitch, no problem. I had a tillering string break on me one time while I was shooting in an osage selfbow, but it was the braided loop that broke due to wear i hadnt noticed... from sliding it over the corners of staves that hadn't been rounded over yet.

Super glue gel is all I use anymore. Do not use two-ton epoxy or anything similar. A sharp whack or heat will loosen this type adhesive.........Art

I used to use urac, but have switched to gel super glue, which works wonderfully. I'd advise against titebond of any flavor for glueing horn.