Hey guys-
 So I have been attempting to make a Kenny M R/D design longbow without any luck. Having such a hard time getting the radius to fit with the form for the riser.
 I would like to make a couple HH longbow designs to build up to a R/D. What are the dimensions for a HH bow. I would like to make out out of Osage and Bamboo and then a fiberglass one. I have a few BBO under my belt but would like to make a heavier bow somewhere around 60#. Any information on these bows would be great!
 Thanks in advance!!!

Justin

I`d rather start with the fiberglass one- I consider them to be more forgiving (in building) than boo backed- but if you already did other BBs you wont have big trouble with.
Anyway I heard A-Boo without facing won`t do as good as ipe, massaranduba etc. does under BB- except you give serious reflex for performance and to prevent stringfollow.
Hill used to use one piece of (kind of) aboo under BB- if you glue up more layers it will be more likely to keep it`s form/remain straight.

Good look, looking forward for pics^^

Justin, I will get ya some dimensions next time I am down at my shop. How long are you thinking about making and what#?

That is for a glass bow

Rmorris-
  I have kenny working on my stack. I am looking for width at fades, how long that dimension cadets out to the limb and then tip width. Handle width that sort of dimensions.

Well now that I am at a computer and don't have to type on my phone maybe it will make more sense.

I am looking for dimensions on how far out the width at the fades gets drawn out up the limb. I thought that I read it was something like 18 inches from the fades but I am not positive. My bow I am looking to make will be 66 ttt 65-60# @ 28 inch draw.

I make my HH style 1 1/8'' wide at fades, straight taper from fades back to nock groove at 1/2'' wide with a 16'' riser.This for 66 and 68 NTN bows.

A Justin you want to keep limbwidth paralell after the fades until midlimb- got you right?

MoeM I thought that I read that in someone's thread here. Maybe I am wrong...

Maybe I wrote smth. similar- I once made a step in widthnesstaper- from the fades I aimed for ~3/4" at blanks ends and then from midlimb to 1/2" to get a perfect circle- but thats not necessary at all.

Justin, I use the exact same measurements Bob does, there is a posting on the Pow Wow where quite a few people talked about the dimensions of their bows. I will see if I can find it.

I do not keep anything parallel, I do a straight taper from the ends of the fadeouts to the tips.

QuoteOriginally posted by rmorris:
 I do not keep anything parallel, I do a straight taper from the ends of the fadeouts to the tips.

What taper do you use in your stack for that?  Sounds like a narrow pyramid design.

From back to belly I do anywhere from a .004/" to .008/" taper depending on the length of the bow and length of draw.

From the side of the bow I do a straight line from fadeouts (1.125" wide) down to the tips( just over .5" wide)

All kinds of differnt designs.

On a 68" bow, I keep my limbs parallel from center out to 18" on each limb, then taper to 1/2" at the tips.

Now Justin, with this input, let me know what style you are lookin at so we can take a stab at stack! LOL

Or better, decide which of the above and we will ask the builder to share stack...  if they will  

Here is some helpful information

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=118728

Hey Justin,

Here is some info...

Here are specs for three Hill style bows.

Bow Name/Label: Howard Hill, Northern Mist, Northern Mist
Model: Tembo, Classic TD, Shelton
NTN: 68'', 68'', 66''
Nock Width: 1/4'', 5/16'', 5/16''
Profile: Backset 1'' , Very Slight R/D , String Follow 1 1/8''
Lams/Type: 3 Bamboo, 4 American Elm, 4 Bamboo
Riser Width: 1 1/8', 1'', 1 1/8''
Handle Depth: 2 1/4'' to 2 3/16'' on dished grip, 2 1/8'', 2 1/8''
Handle Shape: Slight dish/Oblong, Straight/Oval, Straight/Oval
Handle Width: 1 1/4'', 1 1/16'', 1 1/8''
Riser Length: 15'', 16'', 15 1/2''
Limb width at nock: 7/16'', 1/2'', 1/2''
Limb width at midlimb: 15/16'', 7/8'', 7/8''
Limb width at riser: 1 1/8'', 1 1/8'', 1 1/8''
Limb depth at nock: 3/8'', 3/8'', 3/8''
Limb depth at midlimb: 7/16'', 7/16'', 7/16''
Limb depth at riser: 1/2'', 1/2'', 1/2''
trapped etc.: Trapped to belly, Trapped to back, Trapped to back
Bowyer: John Schulz, Steve Turay, Steve Turay
Est. Year Built: 1970s, 2011, 2009
Marked Specs: 64# @ 26'', 56# @ 28'', 56# @ 28''

Oh, that is from the thread Ralph referred to..

I saw that Kenny. I talked to john who told me to carry the 1.25 out 18 inches and then taper to my nocks. That's the only issue I had figuring out what the hell to do. Now I just have to find a measurement for how long the fades are...

You mean the simple length of each same fades or the differences in fadelenght in order to align limblength according to risers`/arrowpasses` position?