I have a small 9" band saw. It seems after sawing one set of limbs for a take down recurve, my blade is shot. Anyone recommend a good blade? I'm using a 3/8" blade 4 TPI

Glass gives a blade hell.

I agree, but thought I'd get more than one bow per blade

Try a Bi Metal blade They last longer but not forever

I reccomend grinding the limbs out and never cutting glass with the bandsaw.

I can grind a set of limbs in the time it takes to bandsaw and then grind them.  

Has anybody ever tried a blade made for metel??  I was looking at blades the other day and wondered if they would work..I've never tried it.

kenny how do fight the heat from grinding down to size? I've always used a 4 tooth skip blade and it's worked for me on several limbs. Now I'm not talkng production though but it's always cut for me.

Ive been using a diamond blade normally used for masonry in a 4'' grinder to come down close to the lines and then 36 grit disc before finishing with 14'' sanding stick. Only takes about 15mins to get there.

If you cut glass with a bandsaw you need bi-metal blades. BUT after it touches glass that is all you can do with it. I have cut several limbs out with the same blade. I use 6-10 varible pitch for resawing lams. The extra thickness of the bi-metal blade cuts down on wandering when sawing against the fence. Then when one starts to dull set it aside for glass.

I can cut as many as 75-100 bows out with a lenox trimaster and they cut very nicely without all the screaming. Could probably do more, but also cut all my risers out and all the horn out with the same blade. This is on a 14" saw and I never change the blade. I have another bandsaw for resawing veneers and tapers.
I'm sure the cutting of riser wood and horn is the death of the blade as it gives the blade the only real resistance.
I have ruined a couple cutting horn with it as it likes to grab the horn and slam to the table bending the blade.
I am currently looking for another 14" bandsaw just for cuttin risers and horn. Just can't stand changing out blades when I could be building bows.
BigJim

QuoteOriginally posted by bigbob2:
Ive been using a diamond blade normally used for masonry in a 4'' grinder to come down close to the lines and then 36 grit disc before finishing with 14'' sanding stick. Only takes about 15mins to get there.

bob
i started using my tablesaw with a cheap carbide blade --and can't believe how smooth and NOT scary it cuts--i made a pair of kids long bows by gluing a 2" blank and ripping it in two --piece of cake!!15 mins is right!!

A 36 grit disc on a 4 1/2" sidewheel grinder works great.

QuoteOriginally posted by LC:
kenny how do fight the heat from grinding down to size? I've always used a 4 tooth skip blade and it's worked for me on several limbs. Now I'm not talkng production though but it's always cut for me.

Like James says, using 36 grit.  It never gets too warm if you switch limbs and sides. Just make a pass and switch to another edge.

I'm not doing production like the big fella either tho.

I cut and then touch up with edge sander. The blade is expensive enough, but have tried other ways and always come back to the band saw.

I guess it takes about 3-5 minutes to cut and then sand per bow.
Don't forget, sandpaper is expensive too.

BigJim

I think one of the issues the OP may have in getting decent blades is in the size of the bandsaw (9").  

I couldn't say if the Tri-metal or many of the other quality blades are even available for 9" saws or not...

Woodslicer does custom sized blades. There good blades.  I get mine from there and can resaw paper thin if I really need to.