I want to do a bbi for the swap this year and would like to get a few questions out of the way now so I can try one before the swap begins.

Since the ipe will be backed with bamboo should I still have to have a straight grained board?

Can I use TB3 for the glue up? I don't have a hot box and would rather not build one if TB3 will work.

Straight grain is always better. Grain on IPE can be hard to see.
After all that yes you can use IPE with some run off when backing.  Now is the time to,practice with it. When your ready for the trade try to use the best you can find.

I haven't used tite bond 111 but have heard it works .
Don't see why it shouldn't.
I prefer Urac 185, soon to be obsolete. This and other glues of this type do not need a hot box. I use a 100 watt bulb and sleeping bag over the form when temps are below 70 degrees.

I'm sure TBIII would work.  I don't use it for bows cause it deactivates at 150 degrees, but other than that its a good glue.  Urac and smooth on will both cure without a hot box just takes a lot longer.

Macbow- how do you use the sleeping bag? Do you put the light inside of it?

TBIII does work well on BBIs. Follow the glue manufacturers recommendations for use.

You hang the sleeping bag over top all spread out and place the light under the bow.

Just got back home, a friend gave,me some great pieces of hardwood for handles and tip overlays.

Like Roy said.
I just put one of those lights with a aluminum hood around it .near the handle area. Then I have a wire basket from an old freezer that I put over the light, have also used slats,for this.
Just sounds safer.
I then drape the open sleeping bag over the whole thing like a tent. Sometimes clamp the the ends together.
Over night this does the job without keeping the wood stove going.

I only use tbIII it works great aply to both sides and be sure to use your goving tool well and wipe down with acatone then glue I still use a air hose at 65psi and leave it for a few day to dry I have tried urac but we dont get along well

TB III works very well. I do not groove either side and I do not clean with Acetone.
The Acetone draws more oil out of the wood. Sand both sides right before glue up, blow off the dust with air, apply a light coating of glue to both pieces, let it tack up. Apply another coat of glue and clamp it up. Have had the most success using this method.

Thanks guys. Im going to try to get one or two done before the swap.

"Obsolete"!!? What do you mean "obsolete"!!?

a : no longer in use or no longer useful . b : of a kind or style no longer current : old-fashioned . 2. of a plant or ...

I don't plan to put much bend it in at all.

I went by the lumber yard yesterday after working and asked for one piece of ipe. Turns out they were a wholesale and the guy gave me a 1/2"x6"x123" that had fallen off the stack for free. It has some scrap on it but I should be able to get a few bows out of it.

Bona, the company that made Urac-185 has stopped production.
There are other glues that use the same type formaldehyde formula.
So far they are said to work well. Trouble is the liquid type is sold in larger containers , maybe a gallon. Since there is a shelf life it can be a concern.

Ron, Nelson Paints came up with the URAC replacement. Even still has urac in the URL header. Comes in pints, quarts, etc.
 http://www.nelsonpaint.com/urac-185.html

Thanks Roy.
I had talked to Nelson some time back and they said  it was in the works.

Unibond 800 is the replacement for URAC