The handle is popping off because the handle area is bending when you draw the bow. It is a very common problem with glued on handles. Not the handles fault nor the glues fault. It is just bending in the handle area. The power lam will eliminate this but so will lams that are thicker at the handle.
 The characteristics of the wood does matter but especially on the belly where the compression stresses are the greatest and on the back where the tension sytresses are the greatest. Core are somewhat inert,  basically filler. You still want to use quality woods for the core.

So a .2 taper and a 1.75 to .375 straight cut from two inches out from the handle to the nock might not be enough to prevent bending? Where can you buy power lams or do you have to make them?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-U2McZ0Jad4

Here is a link to a good technique i use for glassing bows, you still gave to tiller, but it adds extra strength

QuoteOriginally posted by UnderControl16:


So Living Waters are you saying that it would be better to have three cores then one or two if you are putting on a glass back and belly?

Not at all, I was only stating that from my experience the only difference is in the feel of the bow. Built right one lam will shoot as good as 12, just the 12 may feel smoother and softer depending on the wood.
Like Pat said the core has little to do with the performance of the bow. I have heard some praise foam cores as shooting faster, but it is not the foam that is making it faster in most cases, it is the carbon fiber used with the foam.

carbon fiber foam? does bingham projects sell that? Does anywhere sell powerlams?

I dont know if anyone sells powerlams or not. I make mine myself, usually out of purpleheart. Theyre pretty easy to make if you have a belt sander.