Hey guys, decided to try making my own hardwood arrow shafts this winter.  Does anybody have any experience  With either the Lee Valley Veritas dowel cutter or the 3R Arrow shaft plane.  Any other jigs you have used?

I've made a bunch of them over the years, mostly out of hard maple.  I used the home made jig that's been on this site a number of times, with the drill and router combination.  Make great shafts and very durable.

Used my neighbors veritas, its OK not much on adjustment and tears if you get too crazy with it. made thousands of arrows on one of these.
 
Only problem with this one is it gets hung up in taper blocks about 30% of the time and ruins the shaft.
Just made one of these and really like it, have to sand a little more but it is faster, use a 2" round nose bit offset just a hair.    

Rick and Jeff, thanks for the replies. Rick is your set up like Living_waters?  Jeff where did you get the idea for yours , it looks great.
Bill

Jeff, thanks!  You just put all sorts of ideas into my head.  I like it!

The top one has been on here before you can see it work   HERE   I used another block on mine about 18" from the cutting head to stabilize it. The first block I tapered the hole and it actually compressed it and makes a nice finish....(if it doesn't get hung up) Takes some skill to get a steady feed, if you feed it crooked or wobble it shows up in the shaft.

The second I found in a woodcrafters mag for making chair dowels. Added a block on it to stabilize the shaft after it is cut. Feed rate is slower on this one but the finished product has a higher success rate and less waste. The round bit has a milder attack rate than the straight bit and is more forgiving and turns easier. I can just pull the shaft on through with the round bit which doesn't require shutting the router off and driving the shaft out, thus faster cycle times.

Forgot to mention the pics of the bottom one is just one i googled, mine bolts to router and is adjusted by changing the depth of the bit with the router. Works best if router is on bottom and shop vac is set up to pull cuttings away from gauge hole.

Yes- the one like the older version that Living Waters posted.  I made a deticated table top for easy set up.  I too put a second out feed block to stabalize the shaft as it exits.  On the rear of the jig I put a wing nut on a slider so I could make very small adjustments to the distance the shaft is from the router blade.  If you taper the front, and wax the out feed blocks it helps the shaft glide thru better.  I always wore a leather glove and just helped it thru the process to reduce any vibration.  Hardwood takes a little more sanding to get a good end product but it really works well!

You brought up a good point, a good welding glove is a must for both.