Glued a bamboo ipe r/d and the boo lifted a couple of splinters between the nodes. Soaked in superglue and wrapped in art. Sinew. After shooting in there was a crack at a mid draw. The ipe is fine and doesn't look like a starved glue joint but more of a boo failure across the back of the boo above my thumb. Thoughts or ideas?

I posted from my phone so if the pics are too big I apologize and will change when I get to a computer.

Goose, you might try filling with super glue and clamping. Be sure you don't glue the clamps to the bow, though.
 What glue did you use for the glue-up? If you used TB glue you can heat it to 150deg and the glue will release so you can add another backing. Try hickory next time. I've never had a failure with hickory but quite a few with boo backing.

Boo has a habit of doing that. I thin the bows side of limb edge of my boo to nothing and make the entire piece of boo very thin. 1/8 at the handle tapering to 1/16th at the tips. I never use a rasp on the boo edges, I use a palm sander. Boo is strong stuff, looks like you left your boo very thick.

Agree with Roy.

Wow, 1/8" to 1/16" that is 3mm to 1.5mm in decimal, that's way too thin for me, everybody here use the same thickness? I make my boo backings 4-5mm thick at least.

That helps Roy.  That was another thought that was brought up.  This was a buddy's bow and mine made a shooting bow but the boo on mine was paper thin at glue up.  His was a bit thicker as you can see.

We used Urac 185 on the glue up and probably could of used half of what we did with the excess we had over.  Placed glue on both sides of the mating surfaces as well to make sure about the application.

I thin mine way down as well. One thing I noticed 3 boo bows ago was my boo was slightly convexed from flattening, I didnt realize it until I put the clamps and URAC to it. I had the same results you guys did Goose. Pat's super glue plan works well and sands smooth. I didnt even clamp mine. I just kept putting more glue in the opening until it wouldnt accept anymore. If you warm up that area slightly, the glue will flow right down in nicely. Good luck!

My final prep for the belly side of the boo, " glue side", is I lay it down on my work bench belly side up and place strips of old 1/4 inch thick carpet under it between the nodes, not over the nodes. Then I run my toothing plane blade which is convex down the boo to put in glue lines. The convex blade gives the boo a "slight" concave effect. Toothing plane the bow wood the same, minus the carpet shims. Then blow the dust off the joints, wipe with a rag with denatured alcohol and glue her up.  I've never had boo come apart at the glue joint. All my splinters were on the side or back of the boo throwing up a splinter. Since I quit using a rasp on the sides of the boo, my side splinters have gone away. All I use is Urac185, spread it out with a small paint brush Goose, both joints and don't make it too thin, just let the excess squeeze out the sides. Then I wrap the whole bow with plastic wrap and glue her up. The plastic wrap keeps the excess glue from messing up your clamps or shop floor. Be sure to pad the boo side and belly side of bow wood with something so the clamps don't cause any stress factors, don't crank down the clamps real tight, just a little past snug.

With the boo being thinner, it will flex easier Goose..

I'd buy that for a dollar! Roybert is the boo backing king in my book.

I do the same as Roy. 1/8 to 1/16.

I too thin mine to 1/8 to 1/16 and use a toothing plane to convex both gluing surfaces.