First off I'd like to thank you folks for the encouragement on my first project.... it turned out light but held together and is a whole lot of fun to shoot... Thank you

My second attempt will be a Kentucky Coffee tree stave. It is longer than the Mulberry I just finished but there is very little information on the wood. It was cut about 7 months ago and feels fairly heavy though I don't have a large frame of reference in this dept being a novice.

     

The early rings are rather thin but there is a fat one about four rings in that runs the length of the stave. Should I be happy with one of the thin rings or go for the fat one? I think there is plenty of wood if I go for it?


The ring on end

     

The other end

     

Ring in the center of the stave

     

The stave has a tiny bit of twist and a bit of rollercoaster on the back but it is fairly straight.





I am looking for design ideas....  How would you use this stave? I have no idea about dimensions and design for this wood....

Thank you in advance for the feedback....

I don't know anything about that wood, but would guess that if there are no violations on the first ring just use it for the back. The grain looks more like a fast growing soft wood than a hard wood. Is this a hardwood that can handle the pressure of a bow. If it is it looks like a great peice of wood.
Sorry I can't be more help. Am interested in seeing how this comes out.

It is violated in two spots but after looking at it I may be able to use it as is because the spots are close to the tip on one end.

I know a few folks have made bows with it and it is listed as a bow wood (KENTUCKY COFFEETREE .60 here....  http://sites.google.com/site/onemississipp/bowwoods

I just don't know how to lay it out and what design best utilizes it's properties? I am hoping someone here has used it?

I'd use get any of those rings to a singular one and go for it. 64" long to 70", 1 3/4 wide to midlimb then taper to 3/8". Just my opinion.

I have never heard of that wood, but like Joe said, if the rings are violated,chase another.  You want it to ONE ring on the back.
Have fun Kip,

I remember seeing one that turned out really nice, but not for sure where it was at though. Maybe do search over on the Primitive Archer site.

Stave's side profile is basically straight, which suggests to me a more pyramid limb design.

Are you wanting a bulbous or retangular style handle? That's a consideration on limb design also.

Rings look fine. Looks like a ring could be easily chased on that type wood. Folks generally only look at back rings for strength, but compression rings/thickness is just as important. Good luck.......Art

Its a fine looking piece of wood even though I have never seen that type before. Nice uniform shape and rings.

I think it was Timo that made a Kentucky Coffee tree bow.

Joe, Chuck if somebody that has use Kentucky Coffee wood does not chime in 1 3/4 to 3/8 it is.

The handle wiil probably be rectangular on this one Art but with me it could change along the way?

Timo I'll send a PM and see what he has to say.

WOW...I would love to dig into that stave and turn a bow out.  Cannot wait to see how this one turns out.  

PS...not to hijack but if anyone has a Kentucky Coffee stave they would like to send up to Montana please PM me to work out a deal...looks like GREAT wood.

they sell on e****

An 1 3/4" limb width sounds about right. If you're not going to recurve or flip the tips, I would only parallel the sides of the limbs out 6" from the fades and then taper to the tips. This design, IMO, will allow more "meat" mid-limb over the parallel design, reducing a lot more limb vibrations. Important for bows of this length I think.

And with a retangular handle, and using a pryamid limb design, I think it best to spread out inner limb strain by that "6" out from the fades" I mentioned above.......Art

KY coffee tree is absolutely beautiful when 1/4 sawn. Seems like I remember seeing a post from Timo about building one. It is easy to work and makes a fantastic turkey call I do know that.

Look forward to seeing the outcome on this one.

Should I try to straighten this or tiller around all the woopydoooo's



This stave seems to be a bit more seasoned than the Mulberry.



This end is alot straighter...

Keep them in, that way when you find a nice set of snake skins to put on it you can scare all your hunting buddies.  

It can be tillered like that but I would try and get some of the whoop out of the doo if it were me.

Worked a bit more on the Grip and Fades tonight...

If you guys see me goofin up please let me know...

i always like to leave my final handle shape until last, in case i find i would like to flip the bow- but i have also done some where i did the handle early on.
i like the character in a bow, and thats how i would tiller it, however if it is nice and straight- then you can use the "tillering gizmo" and that tool really helps a lot when you are starting out-( i still use it heaps!!)
good luck
wayne

Wayne Thanks...  Hmmmm....  to late for this one (unless I make the grip straight) but another lesson to stick in the box... I used the Gizmo on my first bow but it bent thru the handle and was made from a very straight Mulberry stave.

Thank you, being my second try I'll take any advise into consideration.....