I have a new Owl hunting bow  , its Eds Brush bow model and I shoot it well but it has BAD handshock and vibration  . So bad I may see if he will take it back due to it causing bad wrist pain unless I can figure out how to stop it . I have tried raising the brace height up and down a little but nothing drastic . Dont know if Ed takes bows back or not without talking with him but I really love the bow and want to make it work but the vibration has got to go . Any advise would be appreciated .  

Mike

Try heavier arrows.

Yeah what weight arrows are you using??

Using too light of arrows will give excessive hand shock.

Bow is 52 lbs at my draw 27in. and I shoot 29 in. 6065 with 160 grain point . Total weight is a little over 600 grains .

We could use a little more info please.

What length bow?

Is this bow a sinewed or rawhide backed bow? What type of string (FF or B-50/55)? Are you gripping the bow correctly (e.g. straight wrist, medium or low wrist per arrow pass layout)? Art

600 grains is plenty of weight for that bow.  

tiller could be off some  or reduce the tip size

If it's that bad, it must be tiller. Measure from string to belly at the same place on both limbs to check.

What is your brace height?

Brush bow? The bow's length is short,,, correct?

58in. long , sinew backed , b55 string about double the size of a D97 string , tips are a little bigger than my thumb all the way around . Ed said brace should run around 7 and Ive run it from 6.5 to 7.25 . I wouldnt think tiller would be off but I will check , what should the no. be on each limb ( dont know much about tiller ). What Im feeling is alot of vibration seems like from the bottom limb . I dont know if vibration is called handshock but what Im getting is alot of vibration . Grip wise Im shooting it with a med low .

What you are describing could be timing of the limbs. Not returning at the same time. this could be tillering or tip weight or a combination of both.

Its a VERY nice bow , maybe one of the nicest I had and i shoot it very well . I do shoot 3 under and that may be part of the problem but Ed said it should be fine shooting 3 under , tried split but vibration was about the same . Woundering if I could shoot a FF string with the loops padded heavy . Maybe al selfbows have a little hanshock and I didnt know it as this is my first .

A FF string will help more than you realize. Padded well as you suggested. Timing is another thing as was mentioned. Try balancing your bow on one finger and find its balance point. That's where the center of your grip should be IMO. You may have to accomidate this with a different type grip.

Short bows aren't as prone to handshock, as say, the longer bows. Really would help to see some pics of your bow. Limb design has much to do with what you're experiencing....Art

One other thing, with that sinew back, and you living in the NC, the backing is mostly dead weight this time of year. That could contribute to your problem. How you shot the bow in cold/cooler weather? Do you have any idea of the weight gain you see once it cools down? Art

Ive only had the bow one week but i shoot it very well . dont know if its lost any # due to humity but its very smooth drawing . If I can work out the vibration issue it will be perfect . The bow is black walnut , elk sinew backing , retieulated python skins, burmess python grip , turquiose artwork . Ed said it was a very special bow and it was #800 . If you have seen his work you know its nice when he says it a very special bow . Eds goon till the 15 th and Im going to give him a call to see if he can give me any tips to stop the vibration . I dont think it could be retillerd with the skins on it or could I ?

Sinewed backed bows are, for the most part, seasonal bows. Try shooting the bow early one cool morning and see if that helps. Once the sinew/glue tightens up, that shock may lessen........Art

I have made a few sinew backed bows and humidity and temp do affect them...as much as 20# in some cases. During humid times the sinew/glue will absorbe moisture from the hamid air and add physical weight to the limbs plus slow their recovery.

Shot the bow split last night and no shock or vibration . Been shooting 3 under so long i cant try switching plus I shoot my other bows 3 under . May see if Ed will retiller for 3 under but how I shoot the bow is the problem  because split is fine . I paid $1200 for this bow and i think it worth every penny but it has to be plesent for me to shoot or Id just get rid of it and lose money .

Sounds more like you're gripping your bow correctly when using split fingers, and perhaps gripping incorrectly for three under. Are you gripping the bow the same for both type draws? You shouldn't.

It's all about timing and balance. And not so much about the tiller in this instance. Try taking a little heel off of the handle when shooting three under. Or keep shifting hand pressure from one limb to the other until you find the sweet spot.......Art

Physical balance on a bow in your hand, and limb balance to a pressure point at full draw are two separate things..... i would recommend a little test to determine where the problem lies... shoot it using low pressure on the heel of your grip, then switch to a high wrist putting all the pressure in the web of your thumb and index finger.

that should tell you the story on where the limbs are balanced. you can play with padding your grip with leather and electrical tape to find the right grip shape too..... once you get her dialed in, talk to your bowyer about a grip alteration.

Have you shot self bows before?
They are a different kind of animal!
 I know there is slight hand shock in my self bows compared to my glass bows.Tiller,tip weight and limb mass are where hand shock come from.

I am not sure what the grip looks like, but you can try squeezing the grip with the pinky first,then the ring finger and your middle finger. Your thumb and pointer finger should be relaxed. This has always made a huge difference in bows with straight or broom handle grips for me.

If you switch out your string for a modern material it would be a night and day difference too.