I have a couple of osage logs that are about 10 years old. I am going to split them into staves and splice in the  handle. I have done this on two osage boards and one survived. I put a backing on both and used URAC. I want to use smooth-on to splice the billets. Please don't take this wrong but I'm not a big fan of URAC. I've had three R&D board bows blow using URAC. They let go under the backing. It is probably something I did wrong but I have made 6 glass bows with smooth-on and it worked great. Is there any reason smooth-on won't work. Can I cook the bow in my oven. How do I put a backing on the stave after the spice if I need one. Thanks, Don

If you're going to use a backing Don, then make you billets board like before splizing. One great thing about the urac, it'll take a lot of heat. Makes straightening near the splice that much more reassuring...Art

I know Gary Davis swears by Resourcenal because it is waterproof....?

i would use a bow sleeve and make a 2 piece. you can use 2 part  5 min epoxy. once you fit the 2 halves together in a sleeve you tiller like a one piece stave. in my experience building bows i will be building 2 piece bows from now on. i honestly think its easier. and the handle is already shaped. rv

I have always done what ArtB suggested, used smooth-on and never had a problem

I really don't want to make a two piece due to the cost of the sleeve. I am not going to back the bow. It will be a stave bow. I was wondering if I needed to put a piece of wood or glass over the splice on the back of the bow to reinforce the splice. This would be kind of like an overlay that you put on a glass bow. I would have to make the back flat to put the overlay on. This would violate the rings on the back. I am trying to make a 60 to 65 lb bow at 28" for a gift. I probably will put a dowel thru each side of the splice.I don't want the splice to blow apart. Thanks, Don

if you are not experienced in making a fishtail splice, which is a precision cut and fit it is already doomed to fail. the sleeve is the way to go. i know it costs but you will be happy with it in the long run. beleive me im looking into splicing billets myself. until i get the tight fit with the glue up that is required, i will go with the sleeve. goood luck in your quest . the sleeve is still an option for you. rv

I agree the sleeve is a good choice but I don't want to spend the extra right now.I have spliced a couple of osage boards and found it fairly easy if you take your time on the band saw. Both of the splices held but the limb on one blew. It is real easy to add a overlay or power lam on a board bow. Don

don  ill be honest w ya if ur splice is tight fittin  urac 185 will more n do the job so will the others but keep in mind smooth on is made for fiber glass  and u relley want a gap filling epoxey thereiv never had a fialur with urac  brock

I have made about 50 bamboo backed bows with urac and at least that many billet splices with no failures. I love being able to make a heat correction on a urac glued blank without it coming apart.

You are probably correct, some part of your gluing process is flawed. If Urac fails for you on wood bows, what ever else you use may fall as well.  

I suspect you are degreasing your osage with something that is staying in the wood and causing failures.

I don't degrease, I found it a waste of time and unnecessary, another bow making "old wives tale".

I rough up the surfaces with a toothing plane iron and glue up my backings or splices, no failures.

Like Eric says, something is up with your glueing process, don't forget Urac has a fairly short shelf life, could that be part of your problem??
Good luck.
Bert.

I wanted to try urac awhile back but the order neaver materialized for some reason. While talking to the owner/manager of a mail-order company, they told me they had only one container of urac in stock that had been on their shelves for more than a year. They offered me the urac for the cost of shipping if I wanted to try the glue. I thought since I would use it on a board bow with a self-made hickory backing there wasn't much to loss. Unfortunately we never completed the order so I'll not find out how well urac does until I do finally make a purchase.
My point is, the company rep was concerned with the quality of urac that was that old. Eric and Bert may be right.

I've had mine for about 2 years but it has been in the fridge. I was under the impression it would keep like that. Don

I have watched Gary Davis cut MANY splices. He lays them out by hand and cuts free hand on a band saw. Uses Resourcenal to glue as it will take the steam.This all takes just a few minutes(for a guy that has done over 1000) No pins needed. No overlay needed. Just be sure to make a flat spot on the belly side of each billet so you can keep it under control while at the saw. If you have Gary's DVD, he shows how this is all done.
Good luck Don.
Chuck

Z splices are a piece of cake. All I have ever used is URAC 185. It is bullet proof in my opinion.

My layout.