Drum sander for laminations

Started by Cambow, June 29, 2011, 11:34:00 AM

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Cambow

So... here is my question...

If you had $1,000 to spend for a lamination grinder set-up... which one would you choose? I here that Grizzly has a new 10-20 model that is great and in only about 400 bucks.

But... I have also heard that the Grizzly drum sanders have a "velcro" method of attaching the sanding paper to the drum and that it is not accurate enough to make bow laminations. I bought a Jet 16-20 and am still only grinding one at a time do to flex in the machine... I would love to hear the opinions of those who have more experience and have maybe tried various machines.

Thanks,
- CAMBOW
  Stick Bendin' - Shaft Chuckin' - Trad Junkie...

Dick in Seattle

I have both the Grizzly Baby Drum Sander and the Jet (Performax) 10-20.    The Grizz has produced maybe 35 bows, the Jet is purely backup.    I don't know if there is a "perfect" drum sander... I've been looking at the Delta... pricey.     My first drum was a used Performax and I got rid of it very quickly.  As you note, the flex was simply unmanageable.   Got the Griz and was very happy, until the feed motor drive broke.   They sent a replacement free, but it took several months as they were in the process of redesign.   No problems since.    While it was down, the only immediate backup (like same day!) I could get turned out to be a new Jet version of the Permformax, so I went ahead in order to keep the job moving.   It performed fine, but I was still nervous about when the flex in the arm would start showing up.  I haven't tried it, but I think I could go thinner with it than  I do with the Griz.

Grizzly's new lower price drum, which you mention, is very obviously to the same design as the Permormax, but with a brace on the open side, which has to be a good idea, but might be a pain.   I have talked with a few folks who have actually modified their older Performax models by  adding a brace and they say it isn't too much of a hassle.  

Overall, I'll stick with my Baby Drum and the cloth backed paper.  I grind down to .060 without a sled and to .050 or a bit less with a sled.   I haven't had a need to go thinner than that.   If I wanted really thin veneer I guess I'd just buy it.

There's one guy's experience, for what it's worth....
Dick in Seattle

"It ain't how well the bow you shoot shoots, it's how well you shoot the bow you shoot."

GREG IN MALAD

I have the Delta 18-36 and overall it has worked fine for 8 years. It does have a couple problems, the first is that the adjustment gears are plastic and broke after 6 years. The replacements are fairly inexpensive but I would prefer metal gears. The other quirk is the drive belt walks to one side, but this is probably caused by the belt and not the machine.
I didnt miss, thats right where I was aiming

Hootsbow

If you get the grizzly baby drum go ahead and buy a box full of the nylon gears for the feed table

Dick in Seattle

Just read a write up on a new Shop Fox drum sander.   My experience to date with Shop Fox tools involves selling them the day I got them or taking them to the dump.  (Absolute truth!) However, I figured I would read some reviews.    Weren't too many, new tool, but one wood magazine gave it a rating of 2.5 out of 10...

Like I said, don't know of a perfect one... but still looking...  In fact, I'll go look some more... any excuse to Google tools!
Dick in Seattle

"It ain't how well the bow you shoot shoots, it's how well you shoot the bow you shoot."

Buemaker

Harry Elburg, who should need no introduction,told me many years ago that the only really accurate lam grinder was one that was built like a planer. That is with a sanding drum or sanding belt instead of the cutting knives. He had such a sander he built himself and he said he could cut a hair with it. Bue--.

Bowjunkie

I have the Delta and love it. The belt doesn't walk to the side once you adjust it to track down the center and I haven't noticed any flex or variance whatsoever. Lam grinding precision subscribes to very close tolerances. A little pricey yes, but I've learned the hard way that when it comes to woodworking tools, you usually get what you pay for, or close to it. I'm quite content with it.

Cambow

This is all great info guys... I really appreciate it.

I am wondering if it isn't worth the money to just suck it up and get an expensive one that is solid on both sides vs. the cantilever design??
- CAMBOW
  Stick Bendin' - Shaft Chuckin' - Trad Junkie...

Dick in Seattle

I googled and looked at the Wood Master 26" model.    To drool over, but...   26"?    5hp motor!  220 volt?   $2000 +?      Overkill on all counts....   even doing two lams at once, all you need is 8" or so...  I have physical limitations and wouldn't be able to move a machine with a 5hp motor...   don't have 220 in my shop...   also don't have 2 grand to drop on a drum sander, so I guess I wont' be testing it.    

Any other candidates out there we haven't touched on?
Dick in Seattle

"It ain't how well the bow you shoot shoots, it's how well you shoot the bow you shoot."

kennym

No matter the machine, you have to "stalk" good accurate lams.  Last pass(es) should be very light ones.
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Walt Francis

Good advise Kenny.  Like Greg, I have the Delta 18-36 and recommend it.  It is easy to adjust, set up, and maintain.
The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

Walt Francis

Regular Member of the Professional Bowhunters Society

Crooked Stic

Kenny hit it on the head. First off you need to know your machine so it does not sneak up on you when you think you are getting close on your final pass. You need to sneak up on it and go slow there. I also have the Baby Drum. I cant tell you how many feet of wood has passed thru it. From lams to riser blocks etc. A bunch to say the least. I have had to replace one feed drive gear and one feed speed control. It has served me well.
High on Archery.

kennym

I believe I borrowed that line from Mike, AKA Crooked Stic!

It is worth repeating!
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Buemaker


statedriller

Woodmaster has been around a long time.  And they have a 12" planer that converts to a gang saw, molder and drum sander.  I see the older used ones for sale once in a while...

http://www.woodmastertools.com/s/planers.cfm

Might be a consideration.
I'm getting more dangerous all the time...

Dave Worden

The Foley Belsaw planer/molder also has a sanding head available.  Funny, I've used it sand big boards, but never thought about using it for lams!  (Till now.)
"If I was afraid of a challenge, I'd put sights on my bow!"

eflanders

Luthiers (guitar makers) and model makers use lam grinders all of the time.  There are some commercial ones found on the internet that looks like it is pretty decent.  The neat thing is that these grinders only do a maximum of 6" wide material so you don't get the flex issues (I have been told).  I don't have one so I can't speak about them based on personal experience.  I am thinking of making one based on their designs though...  Maybe someone on here has actual experience with one?  Here are some links:
 http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/sander.html?id_mm=0706MM239247  
 http://www.roberto-venn.com/Thickness%20sander.htm
http://vanda-layindustries.com/html/the_hog_sander.html

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