A long time ago somebody posted a jig for tapering the ends of wood shafts in order to fit nocks and points. It was to be used with a disc sander. Does somebody remember this, I cannot find it, but maybe I am using the wrong search words.  Bue--.

I made this simple jig to taper nock and point ends. It has a piece glued on the bottom to fit in the miter slot on the disc sander table so I can remove it and always align it perfectly when I put back into service.

Bue, Alleghany Mountain arrow woods has a little jig. Also check out Tim's Taper Tool that is what I use mostly. I think Wess Wallace and Bull Mountain sell the Tim's and 3Rivers sells the other one.
Jack

Eric, that is a slick little jig.  Just what I need.  None of the taper tools I've used have been satisfactory.  My local trad store sells something like yours for $11.  So, that's eleven bucks saved!

I made one that's somewhat similar to Eric's, except I used a row of finishing nails as my straight line for the arrow to butt up against. I think I like Eric's idea better, doesn't get much more simple than that.

Thanks, I`ll build one like Eric`s, was a good idea to have a piece fitted into the miter slot. Bue--.

One of the easiest and best taper jigs that I use all the time on my disk sander is a triangle carpenters square.  If you take and set the pivot point on the edge of the plate, and move it to the degree you want, clamp it and slide the arrow right down beside the edge, perfect tapers.  Sometimes I use a piece of wood between the edge of the square and the sanding disk if using larger diameter arrows.  I will get a picture later to show you.  All you need is the square and a way to clamp it to your table

Here is what I am talking about. So easy, adjustable, and always at hand.
First one set for point at 5 1/2.  The degree in this picture is a litte off but you get the point


Then the 11 degree

Here is how I set the angles;

First I put a screw through the front of the base board and the board for the point taper to act as a pivot. I measured and marked the correct angle to give me a line starting point, ran a test taper and fitted the shaft into an uncleaned new point. I could see the black from the inside of the dirty point didn't touch the whole taper. I swiveled and angle board slightly and did another test taper, better but still not a perfect color transfer. One more adjustment and I had it perfect, a complete color transfer from one end of the taper to the other.I put a screw in the back of the board to lock it in position.

I repeated the same steps with the nock taper board. This time I felt for any wobble in the nock. I could tell when I had a perfect fit and locked the top angle in place.

Because I had the boards a little out of square after shifting them around I pushed the jig through the sanding disc to square things up. The piece in the miter slot made this adjustment easy.

I first put a roll pin in each board for a shaft stop but found they were unnecessary and removed them. I can eyeball the taper length and have it almost perfect, don't need a stop. Without a stop you can taper any size shaft perfectly, just push a 5/16th shaft in a little deeper than you would a 11/32nd.  

With the jig set in the miter slot you can move it up or back to use a different part of the sanding disc when one place get gummed up.

TTT

TTT