Cyanoacrilate or sumpin like that.

(Superglue ,even I can spell that!)

I use the loctite in the bottle from wallyworld a lot, works great!

Kenny, is the loctite thin?

I don't think all superglue is a CA.  You can usually find actual CA at a wood shop but most hardware store don't carry it.  I think the Gorilla superglue is a CA though.  

This bow was supposed to be a give away but after this I think I am going to have to keep it.  Oh darn.  The other parts of the lam will give away sometime and I don't want that happening to someone else.  Another lesson learned for this rook.

try the model shops for ca glue, comes in different viscocities- thin, med and thick- they sell accelerator, and clean up thinners.
it always seem to be the best quality- we use it for all sorts of wood on wood or wood on synthetic applications.

The CA with the accelerator is the best.  I use the accelerator all the time.  Makes fletching arrows go real fast.

I am not saying I am right either     But I dont think they are made the same.  The activator I use is CA activator and it doesn't work on most superglues.  It does work on Gorilla.

the CA that you want for repairing cracks IMO is a wicking type. it is made to be drawn in to the crack. the stuff i have will work on a crack as small as .002. the label says ZAP CA. i use it with a syringe. don

I was thinking that all superglue was CA too....Hum I have no doubt that ya'll are smarter than I am so maybe its not.  I haven't read many superglue labels though.  All I know that the Gorilla Glue version is some stought stuff. lol...Matt I hope your bow works out man.  Let us know how it ends up.

OK Matt, how did it end up?  

So far I have just sanded all s-o off and got it back to how it looked before.  I then put it up for another day to cure out some more.  I have today off of work so I should get it strung up again by the end of the day.

Hey Matt,

This may sound hokey to you, but it works very well. If you grind down your back overlay nice and flat on the back first, then drill and countersink a couple #7 holes, and put a couple 2" drywall screws into that riser with smooth on in the holes. Then put another overlay over it.  This will give you some insurance it doesn't delaminate somewhere else.

I had one i used tight bond on and heated myself that i saved like that. she's 57# and still holding up after 4 years.

urac or smooth on is the only way to go if you are going to use heat.

Putting a couple screws in it crossed my mind but putting them under a lam is a great idea.  I just might have to do that for some insurance.

After getting the s-o in there a couple days ago, it is time to test it out.  But first I couldn't help myself and I wanted to see what the bow would look like before I might destroy it.  So I sanded worked in the hand grip, sanded it all down over and over again and threw on first coat of oil

I did end up putting one screw in it.  Because of the shape of the riser, depth of the lams, I had to come in from the belly side and was only able to put in one screw.  I didn't worry about covering it up with another lam because it will be under the the leather grip.  I did use some epoxy in with the screw and counter sunk it with some wood filled epoxy to fill in the hole.

Here is where she lies.  I put it on the tree and with a full safety mask on, I pulled it out to full draw over and over again.  Everything is holding so far.  I took several shots with it and still holding solid, so far.

Bow is pulling 55#.  Still have a lot more sanding and oil before its all done.

 
 
 
 

Love it when a plan comes together!!

That is a sweet riser!

Looks good Matt!

That's a good looking bow Matt!
Good build and good fix!

CJ

Awesome Job!!! nice looking bow Matt

Looks great!  From the side pics, you can't even tell there was a repair.

Well not to say the same thing that everybody else is but it does look really good man.  You did a great job.  I really like the riser colors.