Good work, Justin. Looks good.
Stan

This is why I added that other post and said hold off on my previous advice Justin. Lots of more knowledgeable individuals here that I will ever likely be. Thanks for stepping in and offering your opinions and advice guys, I appreciate it and I know Justin does.
I have never seen that style handle/fades before now, but evidently some of you all like it and use it. I wasn't sure how you would determine where to stop the tillering without a pronounced fade. Just goes to show there's more than one way to skin a varmint.  

So tonight I had abit of a set back. I ended up dropping my bow off my tillering tree and chipped the tip about a quarter inch on the side. My string jumped off when I was tillering it down.

My only solution was to cut both ends down to below my string grooves. Now I have a 66 t-t-t bow instead of a 68 in. I still have them a 1/2 inch at the tip so there isn't a super big change... I hope... I put new string grooves in and added some antler tip overlays. Sometime over the weekend I will put the grooves in all around the tips so that my string stays on.

Is this going to be a an end to this bow... I pray not  

You got plenty of bow left Justin. I don't make mine nearly that long anymore. Don't cut your string grooves over the ring side of the bow, that's a failure waiting to happen because you violate the ring at the tip. You can add tip overlays later on and then cut a groove around the back edge of those.

You probably didn't cut the grooves deep enough on the sides? I make mine about 2/3 thickness of the chainsaw file until I'm done tillering then I pretty them up some more and go the depth of the thickness of the file. The bow I just made is only 60" long 50# @28" and my tips are not grooved on the back, and I'm not adding tip overlays either. I haven't had any problem what so ever with the string popping off.

Cool I did put some tip overlays on last night so and I did cut the grooves in deeper to the sides. I did not go through the back at all because I knew that would be a big problem.
The tip overlays may be premature but I didn't know whatelse to do...

I will post a picture sometime this weekend.

Thanks Chris

Looking good Chris. Alot better than my first few hack attempts. LOL

These guys won't steer you wrong, I learned most all that I know here and learn something new every time I check in.

Stiks

Hey guys... Happy Easter to you all.

Here are the pictures of the tip overlays that I put on my bow. I have not finished the profile of them completely but I couldn't wait to get some advice and comments about them. Also a picture of my fist round with cedar arrows. I stained them today but think it is a little dark. Oh well they are my first ever dozen...

looks good and keeping busy I see

Well guys I think I lost this bow. I was working on the tiller tonight and while doing so I was looking over my work. I didn't hear any pop,crack, snapping, and or any other type noise when I looked down and saw this crack in the back of my bow.

Is this a lost bow or can I fix it???

Ouch!! I can see the problem and why it happened, because the same thing happened to me on my first bow, but mine didn't run off the side like yours. You should probably start a new one?

You didn't swing out far enough to capture the grain as it turned and the red arrow inside the circle points to about the area where the grain was violated. I know it's tough to see, I can completely understand it. Sometimes I have to use a flashlight and shine the beam at an angle to my ring in order to see where the grain turns.

One of the experienced guys on here once told me "You have to follow the grain every direction it flows, just like water flows around the rocks in a stream"[/i]
How true that statement is.

Sorry for your loss man, but you got more wood so just learn from this one and get right on the next one and don't dwell on it any longer than it takes to realize what went wrong. Put this one in the "Corner of Shame" for future referrence.

:mad:  DAMN!!! So much time into this I was so looking forward to my first primitive bow. Oh well no sense of dwelling on this one. I guess it is back to the drawing board.... STRAIGHT BILLETS HERE I COME!!!    

Thanks guys for the moral support... I guess I will chalk it up to a learning curve and get busy on the next.

Thanks Chris for all the advice along this....

I like the arrow shafts and I like em dark. I normally stain mine with walnut flavor Minwax stain, it comes out nearly black but not quite.
Put some of your turkey feathers off the bird you killed last week on those shafts, they will look awesome.

I plan on using the feathers from my bird. I also aquired six other sets of wings because my good friend owns an archery shop. He checks birds in and he has been asking all the hunters for me.

Here is the bow just 1/2 inch under brace... Gonna go unstring it and put it in "THE CORNER"
 http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/100_0827.jpg
 

I don't think it's a loss. Super glue the crack and put a good secure thread wrap on. Add a matching wrap on the other limb if things work out for you.

Worse comes to worse, you can back it later down the road as you gain more experience.....Art

I used flax to fix my first osage longbow, but I don't shoot it anymore. Kinda scared to I guess?
I have thought about backing it at some point.

I would try what Art says. Heres a pic of a hickory D-bow that pulled up a pretty big splinter. I glued the splinter down with superglue, wrapped it with dental floss and saturated the floss with super glue. I wrapped it with some hemp cordage on both limbs and the handle. Has had a lot of arrows through it and is still shootin good.

I wouldn't trash it either.  Just wrap it.  Here's a fix I did for a splinter once.

 

   

 

if you can get it, use wicking type ca glue such as locktite 420 i think and also zap a gap. it is super thin and will suck right into the crack. don

Ok guys I am all ears... What type of thread are you suggesting I use. Also If I backed the bow is that super difficult. I still have some wood to remove. Currently when it is braced I am around 63# at 18 inches and I want to go to 28!!

I hope I can save this