I agree with Roy.  It also helps to use a radiused block so it will more closely mimic your hand.  Set that radius right on the midpoint of the bow.  I use a piece of rolled up leather with some give also.

 

Pearl, that looks terrible, put a leather wrap on the handle and send it to me for immediate disposal. I dont want to get any on my hand! Just kidding, you don't have to send the wrap! Hahaha. Looking good bro. As shown above I dont think I would work that spot on the right limb anymore, just a little more on the outer limb and a little more on the lower. Looks good though. I'll pm my address incase you give up on it.

How come you didn't doodle on my bow pictures Roy? Is Pearly more special than me?
I think my feelings are hurt now.   :D

Ya Semo, Pearly Boy is Special alright:) He's one of those that ya gotta take by the hand and lead him along. Heck by the looks of it, he can't even find his way back to this thread:)

Is that one of those fire starting bows??    

Now that you mention it Roy it kind of makes sense I reckon. Please do explain. I;m always up for learning all I can.

Might explain why all my self bows shoot better three under.

Stiks, with a shorter lower limb, it will react as being stiffer than the longer top limb. As it should react. So the longer top limb is going to bend down more at the tips than the shorter lower limb at the tips. Plus we tiller for a positive tiller on the top limb, meaning it will be bending a tad more than the lower limb.

I got the inners bending nicely after soem advice and seeing the pic, it didnt take much to get them going. Roy Boy I wrote "NO" several scrapes ago on the areas you said to leave alone. One is a knot and the other is just right already. I still have 2.5" to my draw length. This was a good thread, half of us agreed it needed a tweak and the other half said it was ready to blow! Thats why we ask isnt it? Thanks for all the feedback averybody. I will take a few pics tonite when I get home for session II.

Atta boy.

I like the bend to start at the fades and then gradually increase toward the tips. PD most of the bend is happening the last foot or so. That is known as a whip tillered bow. You may feel the bow stack or get harder to pull the last few inches. Jawge

I like the bend to start at the fades and then gradually increase toward the tips. PD most of the bend is happening the last foot or so. That is known as a whip tillered bow. You may feel the bow stack or get harder to pull the last few inches. Jawge

....There is no bend that last 12 inches or so....this is definitely NOT a whip tiller.  The bend is nearly all mid limb George...

Put yer glasses on George:)

I was thinking the same NTD, Roy. But I dont have the experince to question Jawge....the man has built a few over the years.

LOL. Ok very slightly whip tillered then.    Jawge

PD, you can question me. I don't care. It is slightly whip tillered. But it is fine if that is the tiller you like. I don't because well...I don't like'em too long.  Jim Hamm makes them like that but he makes them long to counteract the stacking.  Jawge

The bow is 65 long, 63 NTN. I dont know how it could have happened? The tips are the thickest part of the limb right now. They havent been touched since rough in happened. I learned too many hard lessons about messing with the tips. It still has about an 1" of natural reflex unbraced, it started with about 3 - 3 1/2".

QuoteOriginally posted by George Tsoukalas:
LOL. Ok very slightly whip tillered then.     Jawge

Good call George.

A couple of thoughts here Pearl.

Folks have kinda run away with this longer/shorter limbs thingy. Torges popularized this concept I believe. But some fail to take into account his handle style (bulbous) and the way he grips his bow. If you like that style handle, grip a bow as he does, then one might do fine with building and shooting a bow as he does.

Ask yourself this Pearl, if the lower limb is going to receive the tighter radius once hand drawn, why would you want to make it's radius even more tighter by shortening it. For the type bow you're building, I would reccomend shortening your upper limb to match the lower. But that just my personal opinion of course.....Art

I shoot 3 under as well. I was thinking that would offset the shorter bottom limb, and I could even tiller the bow rather than make my upper stronger as I usually do. I can take any length off the upper because of my lengthy draw. I think the bow needs to stay at 63" ntn.

And one more detail. I do make bulbous-straight grips....love 'em! It may not be a perfect bow when its all said and done, but it will shoot as good as I do! Heck when the day comes I make a perfect bow I woudl be satified, I dont want that to happen because thats what drives me to make a better one next time.