Maaayyybe!

57 1/2" ttt, 55 1/2" ntn, bendy handle (bends in the handle too much right now but getting better). 38# @ 26". One and 3/8 " wide at the handle. 3/8" nocks with elk antler tip overlays. Selfow as of right now. (Except for the overlays, I love antler overlays).

Plans are to put a few layers of sinew on, probably 3 layers. It has some reflex in the tips, after many attempts to get the lower limb to keep it with heat treatment, and some deflex in the handle. Had read in TBBIV about putting a crown of sinew down the center of a bow,and feathering to the edges, and keep it off the last several inches.

I figure the sinew will help with the "bends too much in the handle" situation, then I will finish tillering after that.

With the elk tip overlays, elk sinew, elk leather handle wrap and a couple of elk ivory embellishment, I'm thinking the name "Wapiti" would be appropriate. It is a bow given as a prize for winning the fry pan toss at our last powwow.

Pictures? Is someone thinking "pictures?"? I'm working on it. (Frustration!    ) Having technical difficulties in that area. Oooh the suspense!

Make sure and put a few extra courses of sinew at the handle.  Pictures!!!  

Thanks John, makes sense now that you mention it!

Looking forward to the pics B

B you got us all ready to see that bow now come on with it already.

Accually, not bending too much in the handle, but not bending enough in the mid-limb areas.

She looks better in your hand than on the tiller tree. You could get the outside 1/2 bending a bit more but if she shoots well, just shoot her as she is. Well done.

Thanks Pat. The pic of the bow on the tree is @ 18". I'm at fulldraw which is 26". And I think I took more off the mid-limbs before the fulldraw pic.

I still think I will sinew her like I mentioned up top. Crown it with sinew and keep the outer 5-6" bare. She has some set in the handle. What do you think of me heat bending some of that out before sinewing?

If you are going to sinew back it put a little reflex in it while sinewing. It should hold just fine like that. Like John said, put a bit extra at the handle.  
 Heating in reflex would also be an option. You don't have a lot of set from the looks in the unbraced pic.
 I leave the tips bare of sinew also. Be sure to do a wrap at each end so it doesn't pull up while drying or afterwards when drawing. You can do a temporary wrap with thread for now until you are sure the tiller is right but remove that and add a permanent sinew wrap. That can be covered with thread to dress it up just before the finish id added or leave it like it is with just the sinew wrap.

Make sure and get as much mass as possible off the last 6" or so.  I think I'd have to get just a touch more bend midlimb but it should be fine like it is.  Cool bow.  That's one of my favorite designs.

Pat, I was thinking the same thing, that a wrap to help hold the backing down and the tip end would be beneficial. Some red silk thread would look great over that too if I do it right.

I've been thinking I can take some wood off under the overlays. And I'm wondering if I should make the last 6" more narrow.

 

 

First is an attempt to show the not so perfect string tracking. Part of it is the bad shot angle. This stave had a mild twist and a side ways "C" shape.

Then the width of the outer limbs and then the thickness in the outer limbs.

A picture of the attempt to take the set out of the handle.

The "C" that appeared to come back or maybe I thought it looked better than it really was, was heat bent out again.



The string tracks better now I think, although it's hard to tell with this photo.



I have worked on the tips to get them lighter. The bottom tip has a little twist to it but I can make it work with a deeper groove on the appropriate side.

I've been thinking about other names for her. Artimas (sp) was the name of the goddess Diana before it was Diana. Goddess of wild things and places. A bow made by a woman for a woman.....

I'm waiting for the elk leg sinew that I ordered to arrive. I'm hoping to have the bow exactly ready so I can go directly to processing sinew. The set came back some that I tried to heat out, just from bracing it once. So I will wait for the sinew to do that for me.

Next I want to flip the tips a bit. They already have a bit of a fipped look because of the tip overlays.

I'm looking into natural pigments to decorate the back.

I made a form that is a copy of John S's. I just kicked the tips a bit. I raised a splinter on the upper tip (probably should cut string grooves AFTER flipping or recurving). I didn't use the metal strip on it thinking it would not be needed when just flipping. I used the strip on the lower limb and no splinters. They don't look exactly even to me.

The upper limb is on the left. I definitely need to give it a bit more.