kerryb, tell you wife I'll be looking for her in the bow trade next year. Great looking bow

QuoteOriginally posted by kerryb:
Brock you might like this.  

I want THIS one!   :D

Me too

yup, that is a beautiful bow

sorry i already claimed it...

i showed it to the wife and she shivered and said "that guy must love snakes to let one on his pool table"....


the shiver made me laugh so hard....


-hov

QuoteOriginally posted by tenbrook:
 

QuoteOriginally posted by kerryb:
Brock you might like this.  

I want THIS one!    :D  [/b]

I don't know, I'd have to change my shorts everytime I walked into the room I keep my bows.  Something like that looks ready to jump out at a guy.

I've been out of town for work the past couple days and fighting the rat race traffic of the Washington DC and Arlington, VA area. I was so glad to get home tonight and what made it all that much better was a package from kennym waiting for me.  It contained the guts of my build for the bow swap.

Here's a pic of the lams - nicely bookmatched walnut and actionboo center core.  Kenny stated in an email that I would like the walnut and I sure do    

This is going to be a straight limbed Hill style longbow and I'm going to use a nice piece of curly maple for the riser.  I won't give anymore hints as to intended weight, length, or right vs. left handed to keep you all guessing who the recipient is.

Thats going to look nice John

The walnut lams with the blone curly maple should be striking!

look at that walnut, sweeet. ruddy

whew have not looked on here in a while theres some mighty fine looking bows and materials on here.  

Keep up the great work guys.

Shawn

So I think I went a "bit" overboard and decided to go crazy right out the gate.  I thought about a very aggressive form and went for it.  As you can see I had a bit of an issue with it's aggressiveness.  I do know when I was looking at the belly to begin I was questioning if I should have gone down to the next ring or not because I was in the fringe area that was very close to the early growth.  Not sure if that is what lifted or not because as I was looking at it that was my first thought but I went with it anyway.  

My questions are...

1.  Is it just way too much curve? (I took my time in heating and coated it with veggie oil)

2.  Would the bow's belly being close to the early growth and being bent make more of an opportunity to lift a ring? (That's what it looks like)

3.  If this ends up being a blown bow can I claim the first fatality in the trade bow build?

Saturate the cracks well with super glue and let it set up well. Be sure the glue gets down inside. If necessary you can add an overlay to strengthen it. Now on to the next curve. Work slower.  That is a pretty tight bend.

wow I think you are given her all she's got captain. (in my best Scottish accent)

I was going to ask about the radius of the bend, what seems to work best when flipping the tips?  Goose, I like the looks of the bow so far.

that looks fine goose. wouldnt that tiller out by the time you were all done?

i cant wait to shoot it!


-hov

A metal strapping band clamped to the belly will help prevent that.  Even so, I doubt you could get that much bend with dry heat without damaging the belly.  It just cannot stretch that much.  A more round curve would help.  But, those kind of splits generally do not cause the bow to fail.  Since they are in a static recurve, by definition, they will not bend.  If they do, they will fail.  Keep it thick and narrow and you will be fine.  I generally stay at 1/2" thickness on static tips.  I also make them less than 1/2" wide most of the time to reduce mass.  I've built statics up to 60# with those dimensions.

Just a hair on the aggresive side, but like Pat said you can put underlays to strengthen it, or overlays on the back. Maybe rawhide the back?

Not sure cause I have not tried this myself yet, but it's coming soon. I've got the perfect project in mind for it and I'm gonna get crazy with it.

Been there! No need to do anything to the back of the bend Goose. You can either pre-bend some overlays on your form or scribe and fit a bridge over the damaged area. Rasp down and remove the damaged wood and replace with new wood. If you use some type of epoxy for the fix you won't need to go all that deep for the repair. Once the crack is bound between the back and new wood any cracks becomes irrelevant. Good luck......Art

Wonderful input from y'all.  Going to bend the second tip tonight late and go EXTREMELY slow.  Although I thought I went slow on the first one.  I'll post more pictures as it goes.  

As the potential bridge would walnut be a good potential bridge material?  I've got some chunks of osage, hickory, and oak but I'm thinking the dark contrast might look good.  Thoughts?