I've decided to go with a Bingham's build for my first real glass longbow project. The guy at Bingham suggested their takedown longbow as being a nice fast design and he said that design practically eliminates hand shock. I'm thinking of building something up under clear glass with a nice riser that has a good pistol grip style handle. I'm also thinking about building a second set of limbs at the same time so that I have a couple different weights to choose from, say 45# and 55#. One thing I don't like is the "stuck on" look a lot of t/d limbs have when attached to the riser. I've seen a few bows here an there where the builder designed the riser so that limbs look set in to the riser versus tacked on. That's the more streamlined look I'd like to go for. Any suggestions for this project and photos of finished bows would be greatly appreciated.

check out a build along by "Gino" on pirates of archery

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=002449

That is a link to one that I finished on New Year's Day of this year.  Obviously the riser was modified slightly because I wanted it to resemble a Pronghorn if possible.  Hope that this helps.  PM me if you want me to send you more pics or if I can assist with any questions that you may have along the way.  Caution:  'They' weren't lying when they said that it is addictive...I'm sanding a new one-piece right now!

Scott

Here is a picture of a couple I've done with two different riser styles and limb pad angles.  These are nice bows to build and they shoot well- the design leaves you many options on riser design. In the top one I did what you refered to as a streamline riser.

Scott and Trux,

Those are some nice bows! Trux, I really like that streamlined riser style. What advantage is there to using longer wedges versus shorter ones? I think Bingham's has 10 1/4" and 8 1/4" wedges. How does length affect performance? I like the wood combos on all the bows. I'm thinking of maybe doing something simple like a walnut riser but inlaying some marquetry in a lighter color wood. Thanks guys, you've given me some good ideas.

Nice work Trux! I have never saw those two.. Here is my latest pronounced:

 

 

Nice one Bjansen! Is that osage and zebra in the riser? I love the unstrung profile - it really shows just how pronounced those curves limbs are. The photos on the Bingham's website really don't let on how much reflex is in those limbs. How does it shoot? I take it by "latest" that means you've built more of the Bingham's t/ds?

The longer wedges (10 1/4") will change the working part of the limb which can be an advantage when using tapered lams in your stack (pushing the bend further out towards the tips). This bow does have two tapers (one forward and one reversed) basically creating a parallel stack- if you will be making your bow 62-64" I would use the 8 1/4" wedge- 66-68" the 10 1/4" wedge. Have fun building.

Thanks...and yes, osage and zebra throughout.  I have only built 2 pronounced..the first one was 66", this one is 63" pictured.  My 66" is about 51# and it shoots excellent..no handshock, smooth drawing and the performance is quite good as well.  I can't really shoot the second as it is a lefty but the gentleman who shoots it says the same.  I really like this design.  I shortened the limbs just a bit and also shortened the riser by 1/2" to create the 63" bow and I used a 8 1/4" wedge on both.  Check out what Trux did on his bottom bow..if my vision is correct the limb pad angle is less on the second, thus creating more reflex built into the bow.  Try one out...you will like it.

Heres the most recent one. Wenge/Zebra wood riser. Diamondback skins over black glass.

You are right Brad- the second bow has 9 degree pads instead of the 11 in the top one- I feel there was some gain in performance although I didn't test the two to see- the change does add pre-load to the limbs.

When you're talking about the limb pad, are you talking about the flat attachment point where the limbs bolt onto the riser? If so, what does adding more deflex get you? A few more fps in speed? Does adding more deflex affect draw weight or stack? Speaking of stack, how is this design? Is there any feeling of stack out at full draw?

Yes the limb pad is the part of the riser that you bolt the limbs on- by changing the angle from 11 to 9 degrees I gained a few pounds in draw weight and more pre-load at brace height- at the same draw weight as the 11 degree bow the second bow shoots the same arrows faster/harder.  As far as stack- I don't see any with either design.

i already have the lams for a 62" bow if i build my riser with 9 deg. vs. 11 how much will that change draw wt. it is a pronounced t/d longbow [binghams design] ?          DUSTY

Found a picture of one from 2005.  Not quite as nice as Truxs and Bjansens.  I think they look real nice.

D.E.B. it changed mine by +4-5 pounds- If I would have trapped the limbs it would have been +2 pounds approx. gain.

Jess, are you kidding? I think that's an awesome looking riser.

Trux, I think I've got it now - a shallower angle on the limb pads will make a slightly faster bow.

Guys,

What size block of wood do your start off with to make the riser for one of these bows? I'm going to order the plans and lams and such but I'd like to get down to my lumberyard and pick out a block for the riser first. I have some ideas of wood combos but I think what I'd like to do is go and actually look at pieces of lumber first and see if I can find a really good piece. What I can find I think will dictate what I end up ordering for the limbs since I'm going to go with clear glass. I want to see if I can find a really striking piece of wood and then coordinate getting what lams will look best with the piece I pick up for the riser. If you can tell me the size I can get that before I get the rest of the stuff.

I use 1 1/2" wide, 18" long by 3"-4" thick. This gives me room to cut down to size.

Thanks Trux. I'll hit the lumberyard in a couple days here and get a look around to see what I can find.