Unstrung
 
Full brace
 
Handle
 
Full Draw
 
Dont tell my wife
 

The bow is a Bamboo Backed Ipe 58 NtN 80# @26, but I'm pulling it to a little over 27. The bamboo has been backed with a mossy oak long sleeve t-shirt.

Had a little trouble with the spots around the ends of the forward handle where I clamped down the boo. I used C-clamps and they left a ring indention.

So it popped a splinter. Bob Barnes told me to wrap it and then do the other side to match. I had to fatten up the grip with a little camo cloth tape and decided to do the same to the wrapped spots.

I wasn't looking for 80# but thats where it ended up, It stacks a little the last couple inches, but its pretty smooth otherwise, quiet too.

Now I just need to figure out how to get an 800 grain arrow that'll fly.

Thanks for looking.

That bow is totally wicked. did you use a heat box when you laminated it?

Next time pad the back of the bow with something  so the clamps don't indent the boo. Looks nice.

Schmidster - I use Urac 185 and let it set for about 24-36 hours in the shop, then take it off the form and unwrap it and let it set for another day or so inside my house.

Roy - What would you suggest? Just a scrap piece of wood? The boo's rounded back is the only thing that puzzles me with this conundrum.

Thanks for looking...

Maker clamp pads with bamboo scraps. The inside if the pad(concave) will conform with the outside(convex) of the boo backing. I think Eric posted pics a few months ago of these. It is his idea.

...oh!  By the way, cool bow. Should punch a hole in a deer for sure.  d;^)

Thanks Pat, that's a fantastic idea!

Do a search for Eric's thread. Lots of pics and explanation!

I'm on it.

way to go Mike!

Thats cool I was wondering if I could get away with no heat. Also a clamping idea I've heard of glue 1/2" dense styrofoam insulation on a pice of 1x4 scrap and the styrofoam conforms a little to what your working with and provides a bit of cushion but can crackk if given to much pressure. I think I might give it a shot.

I haven't used a hot box yet. I think it speeds things up a bit, it might be worth the investment, but not worth the wait... if that makes any sense.

Mike, just like Pat said works. I use a whole piece of boo cut out just like the boo I am gluing on the bow. I also glued a 1/8th thick piece of felt to the flat side of the boo I use for padding. I have had splinters in boo bows just like you had, because I also did not pad the clamps till I learned from that mistake.

Urac doesn't take very long to dry, 1 day would be plenty, or 2 if it makes you feel better Mike. I used to put my BBO bows in a heat box. But it doesn't take much heat to suck the moisture out of the boo, and the too hot heat box I used did just that and made the boo brittle.  

You can see the boo padding strip I use here.

 

Cool bow.  What are the dimensions?  I'm getting ready to start on another BBI, and I'd like to go a little heavier.

Thanks Roy. I let the Urac dry so long, for the reason you said, It makes me feel better. Plus I don't get in too much of a hurry at glue-up because once I start sanding off the excess I can't seem to put em down.

Jonathan this piece of ipe came from a 5/4x6 board. So its about 1" wide at the fades, straight taper to 1/4 at the tips.

The handle is a 1" thick "powerlam" from red oak

58ntn

I glued in about an inch of deflex and 0 net reflex. It gives it alot of limb to play with, but does slow it down a hair. (compared to other ipe designs)

hmm nice bow. Rather too heavy for me..! I just put one into the hot box. Plan for two hours or so at about 60 C. Also used URAC185. I don't clamp in quite so much reflex/deflex and end up with a pretty straight bow after its shot in.URAC sets fast so one has to have everything set up nice beforehand. I am keen to see how it turns out.
chrisg