Or you can do like me and my buddy did and go to the wonderful short class/school that Mark HORNE AND HIS WIFE PUT TOGETHER.Great folks and you will be amazed at the talent this man has!

I used the bandsaw up until recently, then I tried just using rasps.  This is for laminated flatbows, so the "window" is minimal compared to large fancy risered bows.  I've done three with the files and rasps now and don't think i'll be going back to the bandsaw.   Doesn't take me long to cut one in and I feel like I have good control over the shaping that I get.   Of course, that's for bows that I cut a shelf and window in at all!   Every third or fourth bow, I just can't resist and give it a classic shoot off the hand riser!  Now that's traditional shooting 8^) Did that with the bow I finished today.

QuoteOriginally posted by Swissbow:
I cut it out with an electrical jigsaw. I don't go over the line, because the rasp will take away some material.
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Andy

Did you have no problems with the cutangle ?
My jigsaw-blade does not follow the right angle all the time, it run´s with the material...

I have done the cutting with a router jig or a special jig for the bandsaw. The last one holds the bow above in a vertical position. So i only need the lines for the cutout on the back of the bow. This works fine. But the bandsaw blade is always a mess afterwards.

Gundog

After reading through this thread, it occurs to me that (1) some people like the control of using a hacksaw & (2) some people prefer the speed of a power (e.g. band) saw... it seems to me that a variable speed sawzall with a fine tooth metal cutting blade would give a lot of both.

SIXBY GOT MY VOTE. A GOOD BLADE IN A BANDSAW  AND A DREMEL IS GREAT.

If you have access to a radial-arm saw you can set the depth to where you want;before center,to center,or past center.After a few passes you can finish up with a band-saw.This works quite well and is just one of the tricks I picked up at Hornes Archery School.

when I bought my used bandsaw it came with a few new 3/8inch blades and some 1/2inch blades.. never used them instead I bought a 1/2inch wide 4 tpi carbide blade..I have used it to build 9 bows. The only fiberglass I cut is when I make my riser/grip cuts and so far the blade seems to be in fine shape. I have also used it to cut phenolic for limb tips. I use a belt sander to grind limbs to the line. I also use a dremel tool and a 1/2in x 18 in hand held belt sander (band file) for shaping shelf and grip

I use a table saw. Set the depth and with a few passes its ready for rasp and sanding.

The chisel worries me a lil just because I am hitting laminations of epoxy and worry that I could cause stress fractures.  I use a bandsaw and stay well away from final depth.  They I rasp and sand sand sand etc........