I found a guy here selling 36" yew slats. I was looking for a 69" or better slat to make a boo backed yew.

My Question is can I splice them like a billet and get a good boo backed bow if I designed it not to bend in the handle area? Or would I be better off going with a tri-lam in this scenario?

Yep,,, I don't see why not!!

http://bowyersworkshop.com/splicing1.htm

Kinda what I was thinking Joe but I wanted to see what the guru's here thought. LOL never know till you try I guess.


Gonna send you a PM Joe

...and with a "Z" splice you can cut both billets together and get a better fit in your splice.
 Unless you just want a longer bow a 60" to 64" boo or hickory backed yew bow would make a great hunting bow.

I like 'em short as I can get them Pat so 60" sounds great.

I'm trying to decide wether I'm gonna do a BBY or a character bow for this deer season. I would prefer a character bow but the first couple I tried gave me fits and didn't work out. I think the BBY will be my back up plan. I shucked a stave that has a sweet bow in it if I can just get her out LOL. I'm gonna take my sweet time on it for sure.

if a "z" splice allows you to cut them together id try that, im pretty good with a bandsaw(not perfect or a pro) but my fishtail splices are a little off.its hard to get a perfect fit , but if you cut them together you already have close to mirror images.

what glue do you use to join the splices

Urac fills the gaps well I bet!

Everything I've read says urac or smooth on or something of the sort.

Joe posted a link in another post on spicing billets

 http://bowyersworkshop.com/splicing1.htm

Great read check it out.

yea im sure an epoxy would fill the gaps.on the few splices i have had successful i cut them on the band saw then worked them to fit perfectly with a file and sanding. although i hear you can also boil the pieces and clamp them to get better fit.

There is a guy on the classifieds that has pieces a little longer to get your 69"

I've used TBIII on splices but for the gap filling Urac would be better. Another option that most folks don't consider is Weldwood Plastic Resin. It is a powder that you mix with water. It is very similar to Urac as it is also a urea based glue...and cheap. I think a 1# container is about $5 at Tru-Valu or ACE Hardware stores. Probably any store that carries Weldwood products has it or can get it.

Yeah Mater those are the ones I was eyeing.


I will have to look into the weld wood Pat sounds like a great way to go.

I will end up building me one of these after I get my character bow done. I like the boo backed bows but I really love the character bows.

Pat...I assume the Weldwood Resin cures at room temp since it's designed for general woodworking?  Also, does it have the same gap-filling properties as Urac and the like?

id use the urac   my 2 cents all i ever  use and i swear by it

4est, when mixed you can't tell the difference. I've used it to back bows(hickory and boo), repair handle risers, add risers and for splices.
 It does cure at room temp.

Great to know!  I use TB III for most everything, but I've been looking for a good room temp cure expoxy/glue that has gap-filling properties.  I'll definitely give this stuff a try.  Thanks, Pat!

A guy from Italy that used to be on PA turned me on to it, 4est. He couldn't get Urac but could get the Weldwood Plastic Resin. Alberto made some very nice, highly stressed wood bows.