made a hickory self bow at the twin oaks camp over the weekend, didn't get to shoot there because of all the rain, have shot it some monday and I get a wrist slap everytime high up next to my hand.I have just started shooting without wheels and love it,my other bow is a recurve and I never get wrist slap,help!!!!

Adjust your Brace Hieght to a full fistmill.  Or 6".  Your recurve usually is set to 7-8".

Second, your recurve is probably high wristed or medium, where a selfbow is broken wrist which puts yor forarm closer to the string.  I hold selfbows without the heel of my hand between my thumb and index finger.  But if your overbowed, it makes it tough.

Thanks bigcountry, to adjust do I twist the bow string, I don't think I'm overbowed its just 45# the same as my recurve.

yes, set your initial brace at 6", then twist the string till you don't get slap.   Also, most true longbows, which generally includes selfbows, are shot with a slightly bent elbow, which moves the forearm out a bit.

thanks I was wondering if form had something to do with it.

Replace the string with a low-stretch string material (FF, D97, TS1, etc).  Then you can keep the low (6-7") brace height and not get the slap.

thanks for your reply, now what kind of string is FF D97 TS1 I am a newbie, or maybe something easier like where can I buy this string and what would it be called, thanks Jeremy and the rest of you guys for your help my wrist really thanks you.

FF = Fast Flight.  I got a fast flight string from Cabela's for my recurve.  I'm sure most online archery places have it.

thanks rain man, would that be ok with my bow it is all one piece hickory no lamination.

IMO.... I would never shoot FF on a all wood bow.

QuoteOriginally posted by Mark C.:
IMO.... I would never shoot FF on a all wood bow.

All I ever shoot on my selfbows are low-stretch strings.  You get the added performance boost, a quieter bow (on every longbow I've tried 'em on), can brace them lower (=less strain=longer-lived bow) and still not have the annoying wrist slap associated with a low-strung bow and a dacron string.  I'd use a properly built low-stretch string even if it were slower for the lack of wrist slap and noise reduction!

Interestingly, try a "traditional" linen or hemp string... they both feel a whole lot more like a low-stretch string than a dacron one.

I usually do a tip overlay and shape them properly.  The low-stretch strings sold by Cabelas are horribly overbuilt... you're better off getting one from one of the sponsor's here.  18 strand FF is a cable and I don't see why they sell those.  I usually use 12 strands of TS-1 and pad the loops out to 16 strands.

I agree, any of the low stretch, high preformance materials will be better!

I started shooting Fast Flight on my selfbows in 1991. Was the only high performance material at the time. I have shot 20, 15, and 12 strands of it. All are better than dacron as far as delivering the most energy form a selfbow. Heavy hunting arrows is my reasoning!

As for tip overlays, not really needed, especially on hickory. Just make sure the nocks have a smooth transition, with no sharp bends in the loops of the string at brace.

If you do use a smaller count, strand string, be sure to pad the loops.

As for the wrist slap, straight handle bows, do take some adjusting to. Just don't fight it, use a firm grip, and you may find you have to shoot it a little different than your modern, contoured grip bows. Wear an armguard, the sting from the string, can cause a break in your concentration.

Congrads on the new bow, have fun, they are addictive!  

thanks guys I'm going to see about ordering some string now.

QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
yes, set your initial brace at 6", then twist the string till you don't get slap.   Also, most true longbows, which generally includes selfbows, are shot with a slightly bent elbow, which moves the forearm out a bit.

Do most people on here shoot with a bent elbow? I've usually shot mine with a straight arm and just wear an armguard for the "random" occasions when my arm gets hit.

QuoteOriginally posted by UnderControl16:
Do most people on here shoot with a bent elbow?

Not me.  My form and alignment is the same regardless of what bow I'm shooting.  Howard Hill shot with a slightly bent elbow, but he was trying to reduce his draw length.

QuoteOriginally posted by UnderControl16:
 

QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
yes, set your initial brace at 6", then twist the string till you don't get slap.   Also, most true longbows, which generally includes selfbows, are shot with a slightly bent elbow, which moves the forearm out a bit.

Do most people on here shoot with a bent elbow? I've usually shot mine with a straight arm and just wear an armguard for the "random" occasions when my arm gets hit. [/b]

I don't, I just twist my elbow out of the way and don't heel the bow.  I never was a fan of the bent elbow.

I think I'll get an armguard, I talked to a guy who has made bows for many years and he said that a long bow or selfbows just expect a slap on the wrist but was not in favor of the bent elbow.

Rover, you don't have to put up with the wrist slap. Raising the brace height may also make your arrows shoot better. When the string is too low, it doesn't release the nock soon enough, which doesn't allow the arrow to clear the bow handle as it should.

That guy might have built many bows, but he's wrong about expecting wrist slap and the bent elbow. What most people refer to as a bent elbow is really just rotating the elbow out so the string doesn't hit your arm. Basic common sense.

ok I have raised the brace height to 6.5" but haven't had a chance to try it out yet due to final sanding and sealing.thanks.