I was going to build the tiller tree design by Tim Flood but had a question.

How do you keep the string in place at different increments?  I know the tiller stick has notches to accomplish this.  Is there a good way to do this with the tree?  Thanks!

Tim

You don't.  That's the advantage.  You mark the lengths on the wall or tree and then pull until you see a correction that is needed or until you hit your draw weight.  You get to see the bow bend this way and don't hold it without tiller being right or your weight being on.  Helps to make a bow without breaking the spirit of the wood.

I agree with John that the tree is the best.
That being said I have a 2x4 running the length of my tree. I drilled 3/4 inch holes to cover up to 26 inches where I can put a short piece of dowel if I want to hold it in position for marking or measuring.
Ron

Okay.  That makes sense.  Thanks for the explanation.

Tim, was thinking of building a tree myself. Where could I find Tim Flood's design?  Jeff

Here is a picture of mine.  Just about everyone has a different background on their tree.  This one works for me.  There are two pullys.  One with a hook that you attach to the bow string, and the other one is attached to the bottom of the 2x4.  You stand back and pull the string and the bow is drawn.  This also works great for exercising your bow while tillering.  I also have small holes to place a dowel in.  I have a yard stick hanging beside it with the holes at 1" increments.

You could also check out this:

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000016

Jeff, here's the direct link:   http://www.tradgang.com/stuff_bin/tillertree.jpg

Look's nice, Scrub.  I like the grid behind it.  Well done.

I have peg holes in my tree, very necessary if you use a tillering gizmo to check the bending of your limbs.

Scrub why two pulleys? Are you running the string up and back down using both pulleys? I use a 1/8th inch steel wire cable, much smoother and stronger than a rope, and a 3 inch ball bearing pulley on the bottom.. Always scared me if the rope broke while leaning back on the pull string.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0J5CySxxhfU

QuoteOriginally posted by Roy from Pa:
Scrub why two pulleys? Are you running the string up and back down using both pulleys? I use a 1/8th inch steel wire cable, much smoother and stronger than a rope, and a 3 inch ball bearing pulley on the bottom.. Always scared me if the rope broke while leaning back on the pull string.

  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0J5CySxxhfU  

I do run the rope up and then back down.  It makes it easier to draw and exercise the bow.  It works like a block and tackle, reducing the force needed by half.

Ok, thanks.

Plus, I believe 1/4" rope has a working weight limit of 140lbs or so.

Eric and Scrub, I noticed your pull ropes are dead center in the handle. I was taught to have my pull rope located where the arrow nock would be on the string when shooting the bow. Because that is where you grip the string to pull the bow. Your thoughts and comments? Thanks, Roy

All I try to do on the tree is get an even bend on each limb from fade to tip. I always pull from the middle and use my tillering gizmo.

For final tillering I start making the top limb positive, shoot the bow, scrape a little, pay attention to just how the bow feels as I shoot and scrape some more.

I may spend a week easing the bow to final tiller but seldom put the bow back on the tree after I begin the final shoot, scrape(actually sand)and feel process.

Cool method, Eric.  That makes perfect sense to me.  After all, if it doesn't feel right, it won't matter what the tiller looks like.

I stopped using  a t stick about 18 years ago. My mentor (Bob Holzhauser) tried to tell me they were dangerous but I didn't listen and used it anyway. The t stick broke while the bow was at full draw, the bow smacked me upside the head and that got my attention. I saw stars like Daffy Duck. Too bad. I was just about to step back and spend several minutes examining the tiller. Funny. I always wondered whey my early bows tooks so much set. I didn't think to blame it on the t stick. Oh sure the wood could have been wet and my tillering skills were poor. I know that. When I told Bob the stick broke and busted my head, he just smiled and didn't rub it in like I would have done. Using one to brace height is probably safe enough. I'll try the gizmo next clean stave I work, Eric. Thanks.  I use a rope and pulley. I can see using one to brace height in conjunction with one of Eric's gizmos.  To each his own. It's  great living in this wonderful country of ours where we can make our own decisions, make our own mistakes and deal with the consequences of our own actions. It's a beautiful thing. Have fun, my friends. BTW after all these years of making bows I had 2 saplings pop last year but I was standing in the other side of the my shop on the end of the rope. Happy as a fried clam on my plate with fries and ketchup. Safe and sound I was. Thanks, Bob. But y'all can keep using the t sticks. Y'all are smarter and luckier than I am and you won't have any accidents like I had. But I surely wish  you'd use a rope and pulley for safety's sake. Enough of this. I gotta take the baklava out of the oven, vacuum the upstairs and clean the bathrooms. "Be right there, Hon!"        Jawge

I pull from the center too. Nothing approximates my hand position. I final check tiller in front of a mirror or window at night. It's ok my neighbors already think I'm nuts. I also check with digi cam. Jawge

QuoteOriginally posted by George Tsoukalas:
Enough of this I gotta take the baklava out of the oven, vacuum the upstairs and clean the bathrooms. "Be right there, Hon!"        Jawge

That's hillarious, Jawge.  Tuesday night is our night to vacuum and clean bathrooms as well!