Last IPE/Boo bow I built, I barrel tapered the boo from 1/8" in the middle down to 1/6" at the tips.  It was pretty flat bamboo, so I then glued it on my IPE and sanded off the sides of the bamboo to the glue line. So basically the bamboo was not knife edged.

I then trapped the bow making a trapazoid cutting more into the boo.  I started having issues at the nodes on the edges where I was pulling up splinters.  So I had to wrap with silk and sinew.

So I thought it might have been where cut into the boo trapping the bow exposing the power fibers.

So next bow, I thought I would knife edge the boo to a shape I want, then make a ledge on the IPE to trap.  In other words, when I trap the limbs, I won't be cutting into the bamboo.  Just trap up to the glue line.  But the bamboo might get aweful thinned knife edging.

Anyone else knife edge?  I read Dean Torges manual on this and he is creating a 60 degree bevel cutting into the bamboo to the glue line on his BBO bows.  And he doesn't seem to have problemw with the power fibers lifting.

When you trapped and cut more into the boo what method did you use.  :confused:

Not sure what you mean?  I marked a line on the back (boo) 1/8" or less in, and used a scraper to get to that line without moving the bottom of the belly.

I was wondering wheather you used a scraper, rasp, sanded or what. I have raised some splinters with a rasp but had better results sanding, haven't used the scraper so probably no help to you.

It wasn't really raising a splinter yet.  Just the more I tillered it, I could rub my hand up and down the side and feel it getting rougher.  I even sanded it down with 1000-1200 grit to make it mirror smooth.  So I just took precautions and wrapped the nodes.

Just curious, when you were scraping was it just getting rough at the node?  :confused:

Did you knock down the node a little? (Without flattening it)

BTW I don't knife edge the boo. I just measure the tickness at the handle (1/8") and taper to the tips (1/16"). The thickness is measured from the center of the crown, to the flat surface. I initially rasp the trap cross section close to where I want it,(after cutting the glue-up to the outline of the boo) then finish up with finer tools and sandpaper.

QuoteOriginally posted by fixer:
Just curious, when you were scraping was it just getting rough at the node?   :confused:  

Nope, only started getting rough on the edges where you can see the power fibers while tillering.  More I tillered, the rougher it got.

QuoteOriginally posted by Tom Leemans:
Did you knock down the node a little? (Without flattening it)

BTW I don't knife edge the boo. I just measure the tickness at the handle (1/8") and taper to the tips (1/16"). The thickness is measured from the center of the crown, to the flat surface. I initially rasp the trap cross section close to where I want it,(after cutting the glue-up to the outline of the boo) then finish up with finer tools and sandpaper.

So your saying you trap the core first then glue it up?

bigcountry-
No, I don't trap anything first. The slat is still a rectangle during glue up, then cut to the outline of the boo afterwards. Do you have a copy of Dean's video? I watched that thing half a dozen times before starting my first BBO years ago.

QuoteOriginally posted by Tom Leemans:
bigcountry-
Do you have a copy of Dean's video? I watched that thing half a dozen times before starting my first BBO years ago.

Yea, I got it, and watched it, but it doesn't really address this issue.  In fact, he cuts into the boo himself when he makes the facets between the core and boo.  

I actually called him the other day and he said he have not had issues at the nodes, but has in between two nodes which surprised me.