Paper backed red oak board bow. 66" nock to nock  42lb@27 Still some handle shaping to do and no finish yet.

Good job.  Braced tiller looks good.  Drawn it looks that the bottom limb is bending more than the top near the riser, might be shadows. I would put a radius on the shelf.
Again good job and keep building.
Brock

The bend is sweet! Only thing I see that looks a little off is the long non bending area above the shelf. What is the measure from the shelf to each tip? The lower limb is a perfect arc from the fade to the tip. The upper limb stays straight for a few inches above the fade, then has a fine arc. This is not meant as a criticism or detraction of your bow, just curious. Japanese bows have a huge offset with the upper limb nearly twice as long as the lower.

How does it shoot?

The shelf is  1\\2" above center. I probably should have cut it a little higher. I may have had the bow leaning a little in the picture but the upper limb does look a little stiff just above the fade. It doesn't shoot too bad. I am going to cut the shelf a little deeper and take some wood off the belly of the handle above the shelf.

I saw the same thing regarding the stiff section near the fade on the uppper limb. Getting that to bend more may help but will also result in more positive tiller. But let the shooting characteristics determine what you do at this point and go slow with changes. It looks like you can lose a bit of wood in the uppper riser belly side. Looks really great especially for a first bow!

You have too much riser above your hand, you could shorten it by 1/2 and have a better balanced bow.

The first foot of the top limb out of the riser needs to bend more. This will make the top limb match the weaker bottom limb better.

You did an excellent job tillering your bow out and you do want to keep it in good shape for long term use.

With your arrow pass just 1/2" above center then your gripping your bow improperly in my opinion. You would have to shoot the bow with a straight wrist with a light a hold as possible to maintain the tiller of the bow for long term use. Keep shooting the bow the way you're gripping it now and your lower limb will evently degrade. Again, just my opinion.

Try shooting your bow the way I described above and see if this helps time the limbs/masses a little better and lower handshock. ART

it looks great...you did an excellent job.  If you do as the others have suggested and get that little still spot fixed, you will know when it's just right by the improvement in the way it shoots.  It's fun to shoot in the final tiller and feeling the sweet spot.  I usually end up with about 1/8" positive tiller.  Take your time because it won't take much...shoot it several times or pull it a bunch on your tree after each bit of wood removal...
Great Job!
Bob

Thanks for the help. When I get a chance I will take some wood off the riser above the shelf and work on that top limb a little.

Magnum, I like to get more bending close to the handle too. I like the bending to start at the end of the fades. I think both limbs are stiff there.  Jawge

I worked on the upper limb again but still looks a little stiffer than the bottom limb next to the handle. also took some wood off the riser above the shelf. It is getting down to about 40#@27 and I didn't want to go below that. I was thinking I may take an inch off each limb and redo the tips. It is 1 1\\2" at the fades
66" nock to nock now ,do you think I can get away with shorting it that much? How much will I gain doing that?
 Heck if it brakes I'll gust make another.I knew this was a learning bow I am surprised it made it this far    

I wouldn't pike it, your string angle looks good now.  If you shorten it up that much it will probably start to stack on you.  Also, being paper backed oak, you will be asking a lot of it to bend much more.  

Finish it off and give it to a youngster to shoot then get started on your next one!  The first is never the last.        


Great job overall for your first!

Looks mighty good to me now. A 1" reduction will raise your poundage up to 10#. If you draw 27" a 64" bow will be just fine for you. Your tillering job is so good you will have to make minimum adjustments after piking.

excellent first bow!!  I draw a line on the side of the limb coming off the fades.  I try to get that line bending very slightly.(tip from Jawge).  cut your arrow shelf 1"-1.5" above center and you'll be fine.  tiller looks pretty good.  I say great job.  Now go get started on another one!!!

Very nice! Congratulations!

Thanks for the help. My daughter needs a bow so I will give her this one and get started on another one.

That's a keeper!  Fine job on your first bow!