I cut a load of osage today and split into staves and sealed the ends with TB111.

how long before I can start working a green stave?
Do I need to get the bark and sap wood off ASAP or would it be better to let them dry for a week or two?

I have about 30 staves and about 6 billets and plan on getting some more out of this place. It came from some farm ground in the river bottoms and has really thick late growth rings. about 10 or 12 are super sweet staves. the others have a little twist and such but are still good ones.

I got to looking around in the place where I cut today and there is osage everywhere form 2 to 3 inches in diameter to so big two guys could not reach around it. Alot of it is not worth cutting but there is about 3000 acres of farm ground with tree lines all through it that is loaded with the stuff and I was told I could have all of it I wanted    
Can't hardly wait till it dries.
Kris

Kris, You can start immediately on green wood. Start with one, remove the bark and sapwood, seal the back and ends and give it a week to stabilize. After that shape the stave to floor tiller stage (if you chase another ring, seal the back again) and give it a month in a cool dry area. From that point you need to wait until it is dry. You can force dry it in a hot box or give it a few months inside your heated house.

Sounds good to me Pat
Thanks

I'd like a picture of the tree's you can't put your arms around. If you can have something in the picture to provide perspective, that would be great too!

I'll get some pics of the trees Joe. They are pretty good size.
How far from Evansville In are you located. Maybe you could come over and we'll go get some if you need it

Buy a quart of shellac, nothing seals better, 3 or 4 coats on the back and ends of your staves after you remove the bark and sapwood will give you a lot of protection against checking.

If you haven't sprayed the bark of your staves with some kind of bug killer you need to. Wood wasp larva will start chewing on your staves rather quickly. Removing the bark and sapwood is the only way to permanently stop their advance.

I was thinking about Shellac Eric. What kind of bug spray do you recommend.

The wasps won't be a problem in the winter though will they? Will they eat through the sealant on the back and ends too?

Jim, the wasps lay their eggs in the bark and when they hatch they eat their way in. Once the bark is removed the grubs generally won't get into the wood unless they are piled up with other wood with the bark still on.

I use Diazinon on staves and spray a strong concentration.

Kris, SWEET offer!!! Thank you!

But, kinda short on cash and time right now. Maybe in Feb. if the offer would still be open.

Total Travel Estimate:   5 hours 1 minute   /   319.67 miles   Fuel Cost: $48.84    at 17 MPG

Joe: Sent you PM