Main Menu

Kiln Dried?

Started by Stiks-n-Strings, December 18, 2009, 05:22:00 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Stiks-n-Strings

I been thinking about building a small solar kiln outside of my garage for drying Osage, Hickory, and other staves.
Good Idea or bad Idea?
Striker stinger 58" 55# @ 28
any wood bow I pick off the rack.
2 Cor. 10:4
TGMM Family of The Bow
MK, LLC Shareholder
Proud Member of the Twister Twelve

George Tsoukalas

Sure why not. But I know that BL and osage can really check wen dried to quickly. Actually, I've never forced dried either one of those. Jawge

Pat B

I agree with George. Later in the drying process it will probably work quite well but early on you don't want it to get too hot or dry. It would probably work best on almost bow sized staves.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Stiks-n-Strings

I was thinking along the lines of what you are guysare thinking just wanted to get some expert advice.
I was thinking, Cut- Split Staves and seal ends and backs- let sit for a week or so then put them in to finish drying and keep an eye on them with moisture meter.
Would that be to soon for BL or Osage?
Striker stinger 58" 55# @ 28
any wood bow I pick off the rack.
2 Cor. 10:4
TGMM Family of The Bow
MK, LLC Shareholder
Proud Member of the Twister Twelve

Pat B

As long as it doesn't get too hot or too dry too soon it will be fine. Under normal storage conditions your staves will be close to work by next spring. If you reduce them to floor tiller stage, much quicker.
 Indiana gets pretty dry in the winter so humidity won't be a problem.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Stiks-n-Strings

Pat,
I really don't need to go all out on a kiln of any type. I just need to get some dry as soon as I can after cutting so I can start wotking on them. I got the bug real bad LOL
What would be the safest and most methodical way of drying them quickly as possible.
Do you think I would better off to just floor tiller when they are a little green and let them air dry. What kind of time frame are we tallking about?
Striker stinger 58" 55# @ 28
any wood bow I pick off the rack.
2 Cor. 10:4
TGMM Family of The Bow
MK, LLC Shareholder
Proud Member of the Twister Twelve

Roy Steele

I've dryed hickory and o'sage in and a hot box by leaveing the lid proped up and turning the staves.Lowering the light bulb wattage.I cut the time on osage to 3 months and hickory to a few weeks on one the rest took a month or so.I slowly built the hickory as I went.So I'm sure a solor klin would work.GREAT IDEA don't know of anyone doing that for bows.
DEAD IS DEAD NO MATTER HOW FAST YOUR ARROW GETS THERE
20 YEARS LEARNING 20 YEARS DOING  20 YEARS TEACHING
 CROOKETARROW

Pat B

Taking them down to floor tiller stage will help them dry quicker. Depending on how wet and the type of wood you may need to clamp to a form to prevent twisting as it dries. I would start with one or two, floor tiller green(no problem of over stressing)and set them aside for a month. Once you start working on tillering you will be able to tell how dry it is by the sound and feel of the wood and whether it is crisp or sluggish when recovering from bending. If it feels sluggish give it a few more weeks.
 If all this works out, do a few more. Be sure it will work well before you commit all the staves. By next winter all your staves will be ready to work. If you rush any part of bow building you are setting yourself up for trouble.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

razorsharptokill

When you work a stave down to floor tiller early on, do you seal the belly also to prevent checking there?
Jim Richards
Veteran

USMC 84-88
Oklahoma Army National Guard 88-89
USMCR 89-96 Desert Storm
Oklahoma Air National Guard 2002- present. Operation Iraqi Freedom 2005(Qatar) and 2007(Iraq),
Operation New Dawn Iraq 2011,
Operation Enduring Freedom 2018 Afghanistan.
NRA Life Member.

Pat B

Generally the belly doesn't check like the back will but if it does it is not as critical as the back checking. Leave the belly unsealed so the moisture has a place to escape from.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Stiks-n-Strings

This has turned into a pretty good discussion.
What does a fellar need to seal the backs with?

What really got me thinking about this is Turkey call making. I make custom turkey calls and read an article in a turkey magizine once about air drying lumber and speeding up the drying time a little with some sort of solar kiln so to speak.
I'm sure I have it somewhere. It was talking about 8/4 lumber though. I'm very ignorant on bow making (I'm learning though) but know enough about wood working to know there is a significant difference in staves and boards.
It was really just a thought.
Pat the one thing I have learned the most about making bows is what you said about taking it slow, I just find myself with this overcoming urge to make some shavings. LOL
I just need to split them and let them sit and go get some dry ones for now. Thing is, I keep seeing osage trees just begging to be turned into bows.
Man I got it bad don't I? LOL
Striker stinger 58" 55# @ 28
any wood bow I pick off the rack.
2 Cor. 10:4
TGMM Family of The Bow
MK, LLC Shareholder
Proud Member of the Twister Twelve

Tom Leemans

You can seal it with shellac. You can buy cut shellac flakes and thin it with denatured alcohol or get it in a spray can. If your cut shellac dries out in the can, just add more thinner.
Got wood? - Tom

George Tsoukalas

No on the belly but you absolutely must seal the backs of BL and osage. Jawge

Tom Leemans

Sorry, I should have mentioned to leave the belly "open".
Got wood? - Tom

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2025 ~ Trad Gang.com ©