I've tinkered with using a dremel tool to make a cresting maching but the shaft, although started out smoothly, became more and more wobbly as it ran.

I'm thinking I will try taking a block of wood and putting a hole in it just slightly larger than the shaft to see if that stablizes it enough to make a nice, crisp line of cresting.

Any thoughts?

You could make a steady rest, for yours  you can use roller guides that you can get at the hardware store. Here's a link to what I'm talking about, of course your would be smaller.
http://azwoodturners.org/SteadyRest.pdf

I think that block of wood will work pretty good.

I put a variable dimmer type switch on mine and which allows me to fine tune the speed and find a speed which does not cause it to wobble all over the place like that.

I think you'll be money ahead in the long run to buy a quality crestor....jmho.  I tinkered with building one and learned real quick that the one I bought was hands down better then anything I could have built at the time.   Sure you can build it yourself, but I think in the long run you'll end up buying one similar.

Bona use an old sewing machine motor and rubber tube the rubber tube is to hold the nock end of the arrow now get a bit of wood and cut a v in it that is for the arrow to sit in the sewing machine motor should also have a foot control to speed it up and slow it down. this method i fine works realy good.

Jeff,

That sounds very similar to the bohning crestor.  Problem with it was, if a shaft had a wobble too it, it's almost impossible to get a good pin stripe.  It works...no doubt.

Thanks guys for the suggestions.

Dan, you're probably right because I've done it time and time again!  

Bona

you could put a piece of velcro across the top part of you v block (the hook side) leaving you a piece on each side of your notch and use the fuzzy side to hold the arrow and just slide the block in or out to steady up the wobble. JMO

the closer you stabilize the shaft to the portion you are workin on the better it will run. also a bit of stabilization out at the very end may be necessary if the shaft is particularly warped. i build pool cues. so for me it is very important to get as perfect a spin as possible. when you put the joint in a two piece cue, every thousandth of an inch is critical on the spin. and if i miss it durring my lathe set up, you will surely see it in the finished cue. i have been cresting in my lathe. but i am thinking of building a small cresting lathe on a 2x6 useing a small fan motor controled by a dimmer switch like the ones you use for your homes lighting. for the guides i have bought roller blade bearings. lets keep our fingers crossed!

B. Glass,

I made this cresting machine a few year back, works great for me.

I've built my share over the years and if you plan to make arrows for a long time buying a really good one, (not the cheap bohning) would be advised.

The real key to the good ones are putting a little pre-load into the shaft to stabilize it.

This is done on some by the drive motor pivoting and the weight of the motor does the pre-loading. another way would be to add a pivoting arm with a roller and some weight. Makes all the difference this aditon to any home built one would do the trick.
Ron

Hello all,
As this is my first post, forgive my while I practice on this thread.

This is my cresting machine. I broke the thousand dozens mark a long time ago. This is my dream machine. Three modified pipe cutters support the arrow. Two cutters stabilize the shaft in the cresting area, minimizing wobble.

http://i797.photobucket.com/albums/yy260/teagus_bucket/crester/crest2.jpg[/IMG]
The base is a little excessive. 1 1/2 thick micarta.
By reversing the polarity of the motor, I use it the wrap my self-nock arrows also.

Oops, forgot this one.

Man I haven't heard of a 555 chip in 30 years, do they still make them?

Sorry a little off topic !!

DJ

Wow...that is an outstanding machine you made there.

Its about basic concept. A Bohning end drive can make you crazy. If you are already crazy, it can push you over the edge. He DJ, ever here of Traditional Electronics? LOL

NE 555 chips available on ****  CHEAP CHEAP!

I like the modified pipe cutter rest.  I may just modify my home made jig.

pete

i agree!! i like that neoprene belt idea.

I think the key to any cresting machine is to have some sort of support close to where the cresting is done.  The setup from Teagus really shows this well.  Looks like a dream to work with!!!!  I started out with a homemade job using an old erector set motor.  It worked reasonably well once I figured out to hav an additional support close to where the cresting was going.

That's the only cresting/threading machine I've ever seen or heard off, I want one.