this one's a little heavier, and simpler, drawing 80#@28". The length mademe come up with this tiller. Again, I had reflexed the outterlimbs slightly, again, for a better stringangle.

it's not an ELB, but an elb style. because of the depth/width ratio, the front profile and the rounded belly. but it has overlays, and it's pretty short with 62" between the nocks. These Elb-styles are easy to tiller and make!

80#@28"
1 1/4" wide max.
62" ntn
figured bubinga overlays (sorry for the bad pic)

Thats awesome. I love that its so short and powerful. Fantastic tiller. I bet that thing spits an arrow. Great job!

I gotta tell you young man....  I think you are doing such a great job.  You are young and have a lifetime ahead of you.  Already you have done so much more than most do in a lifetime.  It is my opinion you have what it takes to be one of the legends in archery, keep up the good work.
Keep building and learning....and don't forget to do the most important thing.  Have fun !

Take Care,  Rick

Nick, as always your bows are impressive. This one looks like the bottom limb is a bit stiff at the fade...and again the tip overlays scare me being cut so thin at the groove.

Well-done!

Incredible!

VERY well done!

Really nice.  I bet you could trade 1/8" of width (at the arrow pass) for a little thickness and improve cast.  I bet it flings like a muther as it is.  Very nice.

HELLO, any Bowyers need a great, young study, help in your shop, with Talent! Good shootin, Steve

thank you Ryan! it's pretty fast indeed  

thanks Rick! what a kind thing to say. Legends in archery? I wouldn't even dream of it    but I sure have fun!!! Bowmaking is just such a great hobby...

Pat, you could be right about that fade... glad you like it anyways!

thanks ben!

Hey Marty! thanks for posting    your bows are just an inspiration for me    

thankyou shamus  

DCM, I doubt if there would be too much benefit.. I had another bow (the trilam I posted) give me stability issues... it was exactly 1/8" narrower and had more reflex. Gotto keep in mind it's pretty stressed with it's 62" ntn and 80#...  

hehe thanks steve !

Probably true wrt to performance.  Looks like it took a little set in the middle.  1 1/4" just seems generous at the arrow pass, but that's the nature of such a bow.

yeah, that's right dcm. It may be optical though, as I had the outterlimbs reflexed. But I don't have any pre-tiller pics to support that.

I tillered this bow like this, to keep a low stringangle on a shorter bow. It had to have a little stiffer tips, and more bend in the inner limbs. To compensate a little, I glued in some reflex in the outterlimbs, to even out the strain. Worked out okay, imo. But this makes it (look>?) too round in the middle indeed.

thanks for your input, much apreciated.

Nick

We see things similarly.

Just for curiosity, did you build it w/ arrow pass at dimensional center, or the typical above center with pressure point of bow hand at center?

hehe DCM now you got me  

no arrowpass at all. This is the smaller version of my warbows; I balance them on my thumb, and then put my hand below it, so the arrow lies 3/8" above centre.

thanks for your interesse  

Nick

With the cant in your full draw pic it's hard to see.  Well you do have a defined arrow pass location just not a shelf or strike plate,  3/8" above is I think appropriate for such a bow.  At least compared to what is commonly done, arbitrarily frequently, at a pre-determined 1 3/8" or thereabout above center.  

One of my favorites, from memory, was not so stout as this but similarly short, bendy and much fun to shoot with light cane arrows.

okay!

I use the same method on my warbows and it works great    glad you like it too!

gotto shoot this one a little more  

Nick