You need to read "Hunting the Osage Bow" by Dean Torges. It's a method of shaping the belly and removing wood during tiller. The V is just two of the facets, the third facet knocks the point of the V off, as your tillering you work the belly and keep adjusting the facets you end up after tiller with an oval belly. The book explaind it much better than I can.

Today has been good, I got the new limb worked down pretty well, and put on a short string at a low brace height. She's still a tad stiff and the new limb had quite a bit of reflex, but all in all it's looking good I'd say. I'll have to even up that reflex later.


I put the bow handle in my vice and flexed it separately so I wouldn't put too much strain on the old limb, that worked out well.

There's still hope Chuck!!

More.....we want more  

"There's still hope Chuck!!"
 Aw heck Dano...things happen for reasons, even though we don't always understand at the time. The bow is looking great and the build a long is a wonderful demonstration of your great craftsmanship with Osage.

Looking good so far,where there is a will there
is USUALLY a way.    
  Pappy

Your WAY to kind Chuck, Relax Shane!!!, You know it Pappy. Thanks for following along guy's, these build a longs are ton of work.

  Getting real close to final tiller, so at this point I like to shape the handle glue on the tip overlays, make up a good string, then start shooting it in. Today I got the handle shaped and the tips are dring as we speak. Here's how I like to shape the handle.
First I round over the entire belly of the handle.

Then chamfer the edges.


Then round them over with a rasp, scrape the rasp marks and sand with 60 grit paper, then 100 grit.

Now for the tips. The first thing I do is plane the back of the bow with a Stanley #90, making sure I have a good flat mating surface.

 Then cut a few pieces of Cocobolo, double stick tape them together, and sand the edges.

 
Check the fit.

Then glue them up with Tite Bond III.

Then set back, have a cold one and watch the glue dry  

m I glad i popped in here. I love watching this stuff. You go dano.<><

Hi ya Frank, say hello to Shell for me.

Today I got the tips done. I like to do some of this work on the spindle sander. First I form the belly of the knock, and the top of the overlay.

Then form the sides to a point.


Then rasp and sand the overlay.


Then I cut the groove as before, about 35 degs and open up the groove almost back to 90 degs for the string at full draw.

 looking great

It's looking good Dano. One question I have is. are the overlays critical? I know they help strengthen the tip, but are they really needed? Or is it mainly for show?
Leonard

Tips turned out beautiful, nice classy look.

Thanks ya'all. Tip overlays aren't all that necessary, but I think they help reduce string wear. You end up with a more well rounded string knock and they look good too.

Well as I said this build a long has been a comedy of errors. I spent so much time trying to match up the two limbs I lost some weight. The bow is 40# @ 26", which might make a young man or woman very happy, but not Chuck. Here's a picture of the bow.  


I hate build a longs.   :mad:

Very nice bow Dano

Dano,

Great tiller regardless of the missed weight.  I like to see that I am not the only one to run into unexpected issues with selfbows. You handled it with style, so do you have another stave in mind yet?

Sean

Bummer dude, at least we get to watch you build another bow  

I'll put some finish on this one, but I won't be building another bow for a while. Takes away from my other duties, like fishin and swimmin and other important stuff.  

Did a great job on pulling a bow out of it all Dano. let me see... 40#@26"+(3#/"x4"=12#)12#=52#@30"PERFECT!(I know, but I gotta play)
Anyhow, are the tips coco or bacote? looks like bacote.(now I'm getting pesty)(sorry)
Great looking bow, looks like a 'beaut. Good Job.
CHUCK.

Thanks Chuck,       Chuck's got a son Cal, that this bow might just be perfect for. I believe it's cocobolo, heck I don't know I forget.    :rolleyes: