Barge cement for snake skins?

Started by 1kwikstik, March 12, 2009, 08:10:00 PM

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1kwikstik

Been reading all I can find about snake skins- most recommend titebond 111 or something similar,& scuffing up the limbs first. I was reading on 3Rivers How-to site, they recommended barge cement & only cleaning the limbs well first.
My question- has anyone tried this? I know barge cement is removable (this would be good if they didn't turn out as expected), but will they stay on the bow?  Any input appreciated, as always! Thanks!
What we have done for ourselves alone dies with us. What we have done for others lasts forever.

Compton Traditional Bowhunters

TimZeigler

Jack Harrison book has a section on skinning limbs, and he used contact cement.  As with anything, you just want to make sure that the limbs are oil and debree free.  Denatured alcohol will work for both.
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PBS Associate Member

JEFF B

i would use a good pva glue. thats my 2cents worth  :thumbsup:  and like tim said clean the limbs real good.
'' sometimes i wake up Grumpy;
other times i let her sleep"

TGMM FAMILY OF THE BOW

Pat B

With Barge, if you don't lay it down right, it's too bad. It's down! With TBIII, you have time to straighten the skin out, line it up with the limb  and get the bubbles out.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

eaglefeather

I just did my first set,on my first self bow.titebound3.What is your application going to be.recurve,selfbow,take down limbs etc?

2treks

In Jacks book he is talking about a tanned skin(leather) that he has siezed with supperglue. I think your contact cement is your choice for this type of skin. Most of the time we use a dried skin(rawhide). and your tightbond is the go-to glue for this. As Pat B said, with cement when its down-IT'S DOWN. with tight bond you have all sorts of time to work out air bubbles and get to track down the limb proper.
  It is not to tuff to do and is sweet when done. I have skins for sale as well as other on the site. Plus as a bonus you have alot of guy's to help out at Trad Gang. What type skin do you have? Chuck
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
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1kwikstik

Thanks guys. I don't have the skins yet, was thinking of copperheads, but haven't found any yet. I heard they were pretty high.Might go with rattlers.  I have a Palmer takedown recurve, gray, think they would look good.
What we have done for ourselves alone dies with us. What we have done for others lasts forever.

Compton Traditional Bowhunters

JRY309

I have put on skins on about 4-5 bows and have always used TBIII.Copperhead skins I've seen on **** when they show up usally sold for $125 to $165 for a pair of them,ouch!

eaglefeather

1kwikstik mentioned in a separate message,about wanting to know,best non permanant method of applying skins,

Pat B

Using TBIII can be non-permanent. TBIII will release if brought up to 150deg(F). You would have to be very careful but it could be done. Then you will have to remove the glue residue left behind on the limbs.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

1kwikstik

Lots of good advice, as usual! Thanks guys, I'll try to work up the nerve to do it!
What we have done for ourselves alone dies with us. What we have done for others lasts forever.

Compton Traditional Bowhunters

Roy Steele

I've used TB111 and I've did quite a few with just white wood glue.PATs right barge cement it's a one time thing.Had a friend use it once.It worked ok.
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