Iam about to laminate hick and ipe.  Seems like a little rough up is a good idea-but directions on TB111 bottle don't mention doing so.  Whazz up with that?

i always rough  it up never had one delam  but i have had one with tb 2 that wasnt roughted up do it  so  i say yes rough it up good  brock

TBIII is not supposed to be gap filling like URAC or smoothon or epoxy.  So I say don't.  I know I won't with IPE.

I seem to remember that in TBB1 that there is an explaination why there is no need to rough up a surface when glueing. I don't remember the exact details but there was a techical reason for it. If you have a copy of it I suggest that as another source. Of course I have almost no experience with this stuff so I have no personal opinion.  

Different glues need different techniques.

TB3 needs smooth surfaces for best strength.

I'm not good enough for TB.... I use URAC.

TBIII glue requires that both surfaces are smooth, not roughed up.

I personally do not rough up the surface but I do always run my piece over a jointer just before glue up to remove any oils that  build up from sitting around.  TBB1 explains this by saying take a piece of wood and put a drop of water on it, now take a plane, jointer or a knife and remove the top section of the wood and place another drop on this section.  The area where wood was not removed, the water will puddle up (due to the oil).  The area where wood was removed the water will dissolve.  You want glue to soak into both pieces to insure a good bond.

Sounds like NO roughing is the way to go.  I am wiping oils off w/ acetone, before glue up.Thanks for the tips and info.