I've made a dozen or so light weight board bows for the kids to shoot at various outtings like the Deaf camp here in Mo. etc.

They work really well as long as a bigger kid doesn't pull them too far.

I'd like to make tougher bows but going to full fledged fiberglass wood bows is out of my price range since I want a number of these bows.

Has anyone ever used just fiberglass on the back of a board bow? Any thoughts?
Ron

Maybe you can find this, or someone can track it down, but this question came up somewhere a week or two ago, and several people answered "yes".   In fact, as i type this I seem to recall that there is a video presentation of doing so on the Bowyer's Den site.   In any event, I've done regular fiberglassing on boats and on wood toy boats, and it ought to work some better than a lot of different things I've seen suggested for backing.  Also, it's relatively cheap and easy.   Give it a try... what do you have to lose?

It can be done but fiberglass has no stretch and will overpower many different belly woods and especially if the bigger kids pull them too far. Very strong bows can be built with hickory backings or even silk or linen backings.
Building the bows long(68" to 72") and wide(2")will help prevent over stressing also and is the simpler method.  Pat

Ron you could make up some all wood composite bows and they will take a lot of abuse, I do back these with bamboo but shoot fine without the bamboo backing. I just cut fine laminations with bamboo flooring laminations between the laminations. The bamboo floorng laminations are very fine and don't add to the bows performance, they are just there for contrast but are not necessary...Glenn...  

 

Kids bows made from Rattan are almost indestructable.

 Rattan Kids Bows

I've made kids bows for schools and the best solution I have to that problem was to use a D- style longbow that bends through out it's length and which can be made somewhat shorter than non working handle bows and make three different lengths and widths say 55,62 and 68 inches for the different age brackets.  If you buy a board of six quarter ash or similar hardwood then take 1 inch slices off the ends it will often be a mix of quarter sawn and bias ring and saving the quartersawn for the larger bows and using the bias for the smaller bows you won't have to back them kind of a pain but to try to make one size fit every kid can be harder yet  good for you for helping and you might help keep some kids out of the malls and streets

look at Deans article on self bows for kids on the other site under self bows

If it is necessary to make inexpensive short bows for children, it is possible to use thin glass. 0,02" from two sides works wonderfully. If to make bows 3/4-1" by width, the covering turns out very economical, and the bow can be pulled on 60-70% of length.

I have read were alot of guys have used glass drywall tape with good outcomes. As of late I have been usein polyester backing that you get in the sowing section at waly-world with TBIII looks like glass when done and is holding up great and is supper cheap

i'm not too confident in the drywall glass, but i've used 8oz. woven glass in the past. the last time i used it was on a 70" ash longbow with a cosmetic backing lam of 1/16" lyptus. the bow was in the 40lb range and evenly tillered over a long working length, and the backing tore. i may not use any glass but unidirectional again.

macbow: i don't know what kinds of wood you have available, but i've found american white ash to work great for unbacked boardbows up to 65lb.

my second to last bow was a white ash board bow 60" n2n with 8 1/2" static length in the riser/handle section, and 4" static tips from nock to working area. this gives only 43 1/2 of working limb in a bow of 60lb draw. i've been shooting it daily for months now and it's holding up great.

while this is better than my average results, it highlights the potential of the wood for board bows.

I have used cloth Fiberglass with smooth on epoxy. I works well, Have not had any issues.

Fiberglass sheet rock tape- 3-4 layers laid on with lots of Tite-bond 3.  First, use some thinned TB3 to size the back of the bow.  Let dry an hr. - lay on more TB, put down first layer of tape. let set a 1/2hr. than more Tb - more tape, more tb.  Most of the bows I make are between 55-60#- haven't had one break yet. Frankly, I think the TB likely helps prevent breakage as much as the tape.  At any rate, with light poundage bows you should have no probs.  It is cheap and effective- so is raw hide.

The more layers of glue and backing material you use will add more physical weight to the limbs and show up in a slower bow with possibly more hand shock. Especially with light weight bows, if the stave is properly chosen(see George's site) and the tiller is good, a light weight backing like linen or silk, is all you need, if any. Pat

QuoteOriginally posted by Pat B:
The more layers of glue and backing material you use will add more physical weight to the limbs and show up in a slower bow with possibly more hand shock. Especially with light weight bows, if the stave is properly chosen(see George's site) and the tiller is good, a light weight backing like linen or silk, is all you need, if any. Pat

Pat is right, you are better off to go w/linen or silk.  My bad.