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INFO: Trad Archery for Bowhunters



What's your process?

Started by gudspelr, May 31, 2011, 05:46:00 PM

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gudspelr

In an effort to make better knives, I'm trying to get a more consistent process down with each blade.  I was wondering when you guys that forge your blades do your normalizing/thermal cycling (3 reducing heat cycles, not annealing)?

I just forged some blades out and while they're relatively knife-shaped, I'm just not good enough to not have to do some more profiling w/ a grinder, etc.  Do you normalize after that, or do you wait until you've already put in your bevels, etc.?  Are there specific things to be gained if I did it just after they were profiled and before I file in the bevels?  I think I've heard of some folks doing all the work til the blade's finished, then normalizing right before quenching?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Jeremy
"Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
- William Morris

Craftsmen strive to make their products both.

Lin Rhea

I have a habit of normailing both after the forging and after the rough grinding just prior to the quench. I feel like work induced stress is lessened as well as grain is reduced just before quench.
"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

gudspelr

Thanks Lin. Out of curiosity how much work on the blade do you have after the quench?  So far I've been pretty much completing the blade except for sharpening.  Haven't figured a way that didn't take forever with files after quench (no grinder yet).  Matter of fact not sure how to sharpen the blade without going to a friend's place with a belt grinder....?

Jeremy
"Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
- William Morris

Craftsmen strive to make their products both.

Lin Rhea

After the quench, I have to finish grind, roll the edge on it, test for proper heat treat, and hand sand the blade.

You should be able to draw file the hardened area if you hold the file correctly. It's tough to start it but once you "break the crust" it will cut. I sometimes use diamond files to rough it up so my regular files will bite. If you cant cut it at all, it's too hard.
"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

gudspelr

"Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
- William Morris

Craftsmen strive to make their products both.

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