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Struggling with final sharp

Started by gables, February 05, 2011, 12:42:00 AM

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gables

I am fighting a constant battle on the final sharp between shaving sharp and scratches. After heat treat I convex edge with 80micron and 40 micron belts. Then I hand sand and blend everything in up to 600 grit. I then use a 1000 grit Japanese water stone, followed by a cardboard wheel with white rouge. I follow with a grey scothbrite pad for the final passes for a satin finish. This looks good but I'm not as sharp as needed. If I use a leather strop with pink compound and a cutlery steel after the stone I get great sharpness but there are tons of scratches. Suggestions welcomed.
"Art is thoughtful workmanship." W.R. Lethaby

Lin Rhea

Gables,
       If you are using the Scotchbrite pad and letting it lap over the edge, it's dulling the edge. Also, there should be no need for the cutlery steel at this point in the sharpening.

I try to keep it simple. After my blade is finished and this includes the edge, I sharpen on a medium/soft Arkansas stone and strop. If I feel like I need a more aggressive stone, I use the medium India stone by Norton, then the Arkansas, and strop. This usaually takes very few strokes to be ready to strop. No need to mess up the sides of the blade's finish. Just be careful. It leaves the bright and shiney edge in contrast, but I like the look.
"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

gables

Lin, are you using any kind of compound on the strop? And are you hand stropping or using a leather wheel? Thanks.
"Art is thoughtful workmanship." W.R. Lethaby

Lin Rhea

Hand stropping on leather that has simi-chrome polish on it.
"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

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