I've got a knife in the works that will have a wrought iron guard and I want to etch it and I want it to STAY etched. Last time I ended up grinding it all away to fit the guard to the handle.  So on this one, I want to pin the guard to the handle (which will be a morticed hidden tang) so I can have everything securely in place while I sand and true everything up... then take it apart, finish the wood, etch the guard and put it all back together without doing anything else.  Since it won't be a through-tang, it won't be a true take-down... I just want the pins to hold everything together.

My plan at this stage is to just take some thin pin stock, drill the holes, put it all together and see if it works...but...any tips for making this a successful venture?

Seems like you've got all the details figured out.
Using alignment pins doesn't only happen in "take-downs".
All of my fixed assembly knives are built just like that, not only for the freedom of the actions like you describe, but those pins also add to lateral strength and eliminate handle twisting.
Make sure to show is a picture before it's all glued together!
Here's one of my fixed assembly knives:

thanks Karl....  Just wanted to make sure.  I never got around to buying any stock just for the pins, but so I guess I'm gonna use small diameter brass nails.  Did you say you got stuff like that at Fastenal?

Karl
can I ask you a question about your finger guard
it looks like where the guard sets up to the reccoso, it looks smooth with no shoulder. Is this what I'm seeing? If so that is some fine work
Dana

Sounds like another great project Scott !

Steve
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Potomac Forge

QuoteOriginally posted by Scott Roush:
thanks Karl....  Just wanted to make sure.  I never got around to buying any stock just for the pins, but so I guess I'm gonna use small diameter brass nails.  Did you say you got stuff like that at Fastenal?

Yes, Scott, Fastenal.
Called "Dowel pins" in either hardened O1 or stainless.
Lots of different sizes.

QuoteOriginally posted by DANA HOLMAN:
Karl
can I ask you a question about your finger guard
it looks like where the guard sets up to the reccoso, it looks smooth with no shoulder. Is this what I'm seeing? If so that is some fine work
Dana

Not sure what you mean by "no shoulder".
I have no desire to back-cut my ricasso sides, if that's what you mean.
Here's that knife assembled using JB Weld in the final assembly.

Karl you have those take downs sure figured out,  ive not done one yet but when I do I will be pulling up your postings on the issue and likely giving you a ring!

Matt, you know my number, and I've never denied you anything.

Karl that's what I was talking about, when I started doing hidden tang's. I was doing like Lin was in his thread, filing the should, but I guess everyone does it different
thanks for the feed back
Dana