Folks, can we start a forge thread?
It would not only be a little fun, but might, as well, be informative and inspirational to others to see how some guys make their forges.
I will take some photos later today and post what I have.
I forged in coal for a few years until the romance wore off. And, finally, the coal dust did, too.
I saw a few Master Smiths at a seminar in New York forging on a small, up-right, vertical forge that was literally made from scrap, except for a few standard pipe fittings and a blower.
It was at that moment that I felt rather stupid for having forged in coal for so long, as well as having considered giving someone else my hard-earned money.
If you have a welder and a torch, or a friend that does, you can build your own forge on your day off and be able to bang on steel in no time!
If anyone else has some photos they'd like to share, please step up to the plate and post them here.
I'll be back - later.

Anxiously awaiting. Thanks for getting this rolling Karl. SKippy

i am watching this one.  

I built this one from some fire brick the boss at work let me have and boiller board . I just made the steel box around it and venture burner . I have changed to a gate valve for gas and added the washer for the air .          

AWESOME!!!    

Thanks for participating!

This will be fun and informative!  Thanks!

OK. Here's my basic set-up. The advantages of a vertical forge are limitless.
The ease of construction and the readily available materials are only the beginning of benefits.

You can see the two in the photo. One is a 12 inch and one is an 8 inch.
The 8 inch was a cut-off from a company that does underground gas lines.
The 12 inch is a section from a grain elevator auger body.
There's a lot to talk about here, and I'm in the middle of glue drying and stitching, etc., so check back as I add to this thread.
A couple things to note here:
1.) That propane tank on the floor is NOT the tank I use.
Tanks that size are simply not large enough. They can't evaporate the propane fast enough with that volume of tank and they freeze up. That tank is for hot bluing. You can see, hanging from the ceiling just to the right of the power hammer, a black pipe and a regulator. That leads to a 100 pound tank on the other side of the shop.
What this allows to happen is that rather than just try to regulate your flame in the forge with a regulator at the tank, this way I run about 5 pounds of pressure from the pipe and then reduce it at the forge with a needle valve. This makes consistant pressure at the forge possible.
As temperature changes and volume of gas in the tank changes, etc, with only a regulator, you are CONSTANTLY "chasing" the flame around. Run the pressure HIGH from the source, and then tweak it at the forge with a 10 dollar needle valve.
 

Here are a few pictures of the 12 inch forge:



And one of the 8 inch:

Now, here are the valves which are made from simple black pipe and fittings from the plumber supply place:
 






Gotta go do some glue!

There are two doors on each forge - one in front and then one 180 degrees to the rear. Most guys just leave these open so their material can pass through. But, I kind of figure that when you do that, the material looses its heat. So, I created a tube to basically extend the interior body of the forge! This way, the steel stays hot as you pass it through the forge body.
Both forges are lines with 1 inch thick Inswool. This is an insulating refractory blanket. Then, this is coated with a refractory cement - Satanite.
This reduces the interior dimension by 2 inches in diameter, making the 8 inch forge only six inches!
But, 6 inches is more steel than you can beat on before it cools down.
So, why have a forge that sometimes as much as 20 inches or more long when you can't even work that much steel?
I use the 12 inch to heat treat bowies or to heat up my bars of steel to work on the power hammer.
But for most guys who forge only bar stock, the 8 inch pipe will be more than sufficient.

Also, those forges are small enough that a person can move them wherever - whenever.
If you wanted to forge outside, or take the whole set-up to a hammer-in or out to the park - it's easy!

My setup is very near what yours is Karl. The only real difference is that mine is horizontal. The rest is the same, right down to the needle valve.
  One thing that I would suggest is to place the gas source shutoff valve on one side of the forge opening and the needle valve on the other side. That way, if the electricity fails, even briefly, you wont have to cross in front of the opening while it barks flames. There is a shutoff on both sides.
    All of my mechanical parts and rubber hose are under a steel table with a fexible exhaust tube (such as used on car exhausts) leading the gas/air mix up and over the end of the table to the chamber. Lin

I think I see what you mean, Lin. But I have a shut off right there on the valve as well, just ahead of the needly valve. And at the regulator and one above the tank.
Maybe I'm not entirely with you on that.
But I do know that anything you suggest is always worthy of figuring out.
Can you clarify?
I'm brain dead tonight.
Wore out.

Take a picture!
Show us, please.

Karl,
     It's just a safety suggestion. To configure the tank/source valve to one side of the forge opening and the needle valve on the other so if the electricty fails, you can turn off the gas no matter which way you duck and run.

My anvil is directly in line with the forge opening so I cant get away from the opening without going to one side or the other. I would not want to cross the path of the opening while it is shooting bursts of flame. This way, I can have a way to shut the gas off either way I go or which ever side I happen to be standing on. This is not something you have to do, but I have had the electricity blink several times while forging and the forge does funny things when that happens.  :eek:   Lin

I'll try to get a pic tomorrow. Lin  

Gotcha!
ON those two forges I have one valve on one side, and the other valve on the opposite side of the other forge so they are away from each other and each is off the end of the table.
I'm always looking for ways to imporve things, and your idea is worth filing away for use later down the road when I "adjust" things.
Thanks for pointing it out.

good looking work boys. does it count if i think i perfected the firebrick forge???  :D  


i will put money on it that i can get an entire sword demagnetized with it in less than five minutes  

Now some of you other guys get your forges posted up here!!!
Explain how you did them and why, so we can learn.

Here is my first firebrick forge.  One of the bricks was broken off about an inch and half on one end so I did a test forge with that one.

Here it is with a blank I'm trying to anneal because I got it too hot playing with it and it air hardened and cost me a couple drill bits.


Here it is heated up about 2 minutes before I stuck in the blank I want to get annealed.

Heres mine just like Karl's I think .Went to Don Foggs site and followed instructions very easy.
I mounted an extra  blower on side to keep heat off my hands    
Karl ,Lin or anybody else that Knows??I need to make a forge to weld Damascus was wondering if this would work(pic below) and how long it should be and how many ports I should put in?????
It is 10" and was going to line it with the same stuff as the smaller forge .I used 1.5" wool. Was really wondering if I could make it just like the first one and T-off (one burner and two pipes)
Or should I forget this and make it rectangle out of steel????

I think I'm going to play with a brick forge first before I build a larger one. Anyone got a link to a place to buy a couple of those big bricks? SKippy